Star rating: 5 stars--outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars--very good, 3 stars--adequate, 2 stars--disappointing, 1 star--poor.
There is something so deliciously seductive and appealing about the scent of leather, whether it is the scent of a new car, an old vintage purse, a pair of new shoes still wrapped in crinkly paper, or equestrian gear. Whether rendered as animalic and sweet or smoky and phenolic in fragrances, leather notes can give a remarkable complexity to even the simplest accords. Tuscan Leather, a fragrance created for Tom Ford Private Blend collection by perfumers Harry Frémont and Jacques Cavallier is one of my favorite recent discoveries. It is not a particularly complex fragrance; in fact, it is almost a single accord. Nevertheless, it features the leather note so well and with such elegance, that whenever I am in the mood for a dark, smoky scent, it is the perfume I choose.
Tuscan Leather unfolds immediately into a composition of smoky balsam, leather and amber, and its character remains unchanged during its development. It is a very modern leather composition in that the animalic notes have a dry quality and the amber is not the classical sweet vanilla and labdanum base, but a transparent, crisp woody note. The darkness of the composition is pleasantly alleviated by the herbal and sheer floral (hedione) notes. Tuscan Leather does not shock, nor does it challenge, but for an elegant, day-into-evening fragrance, it is an excellent choice.
In a sense, the smoky dry woods facet of Tuscan Leather dominates it so much that I feel that the leather is a secondary player. Still, the dry, animalic note of leather is an integral element, maintaining the composition's balance between the raw silk roughness of woody amber and the smoky balsamic notes; the dry austerity of wood and the dark richness of incense. Fans of L’Artisan Timbuktu, Bulgari Black and Comme des Garçons Tea (Series 1 Leaves) will find Tuscan Leather appealing. Sweet balsams, musk and incense notes soften the dryness of the leather; therefore, the fragrance has a decidedly androgynous character.
Tom Ford Private Blend Tuscan Leather (fragrance family: leather-woods) includes notes of saffron, raspberry , thyme, olibanum , jasmine, leather, black suede and amber. Private Blend collection is available at Tom Ford boutiques, Bergdorf Goodman, Neiman Marcus. In the same genre, also worth exploring are Serge Lutens Boxeuses, Annick Goutal Eau du Fier, Lubin Idole, Parfumerie Générale Hyperessence Matalé, Tom Ford Private Blend Bois Marocain (much more classical dry woods-leather composition,) Lancôme Sikkim (another classical leather-woods, but with a strong mossy note) and Le Labo Patchouli 24.
Sample source: my own.
This sounds absolutely divine; you had me at equestrian gear. Ok, actually, it was the saffron. I'm a sucker for saffron! :)
Posted by: dee | January 11, 2011 at 01:05
This is one of the few leather fragrances I like, I tend to get nauseous if the leather reminds me of cars at all (I am terribly car sick, when I don't drive myself). I am wearing it right now, another Victoria-inspired day :)
I need to try Boxeuses too.
Posted by: Olfactoria | January 11, 2011 at 06:27
I sort of pulled back from leathers for a while, but Cuir et Champignon and Black Rosette in edp reminded me how, as you said, appealing the note is. I need to re-try Tuscan Leather now.
Posted by: Marina | January 11, 2011 at 09:52
D, definitely, maybe you will see saffron here, since I do not really, but then again, it is such a leathery note that it blends quite well with the leather accord.
Posted by: Victoria | January 11, 2011 at 10:47
I get motion sickness time to time myself, but the smell of real leather (not the fake new car smell) is special. Granted, I have not been near a new car like that for ages...
I think that as a leather note, it is a very elegant one. I am so glad that you are enjoying it.
Posted by: Victoria | January 11, 2011 at 10:49
It's so great that your blog is so active again! I really enjoy reading about different scents. Is Bulgari Black discontinued? I can buy the 40 ml size (or maybe it's 50 mls) fpr $40. There is no tester. If it's discontinued I would like to buy it: if it's going to be available I'd rather wait.
Sincerely,
Carole
Posted by: carole macleod | January 11, 2011 at 10:49
As I mention, it is more woods than leather, so I think that even if you are not a huge leather fan, it might still appeal to you. If you like leather, you are even more likely to find it interesting, unless you like your leather more like Bandit or Cabochard. Tuscan Leather appears quite meek by comparison.
Posted by: Victoria | January 11, 2011 at 10:50
Carole, thank you, I so enjoy writing the blog and sharing thoughts with others. Of course, things happens in one's life that one has to decide what needs to receive more attention and what less, but everything is under control now. :)
As for Black, no, it is still available. Sometimes it is kept behind the counter and you need to ask for it. The problem is that the retail does not want to keep stock of anything unsold and it leads to the counters pushing the newest things up front (and the fragrance brands respond by creating things that are meant to be mere quick sellers.) I place a lot of blame on the retail for the current situation of blandness and similarity in the prestige launches.
Posted by: Victoria | January 11, 2011 at 10:57
You just reminded me how much I like Tuscan Leather. You're spot on regarding other beautiful perfumes in this genre. I'm currently loving Boxeuses and feel there can never be enough leathers.
Posted by: Gaia | January 11, 2011 at 11:36
Thank you, Victoria! I just blew ye olde perfume funds on Shalimar EDP, and so will wait on the Bulgari Back!
Posted by: carole macleod | January 11, 2011 at 12:11
I do not blame you, I cannot resist Shalimar myself, whether vintage or modern. Enjoy it! :)
Posted by: Victoria | January 11, 2011 at 14:42
Gaia, I got a sample when a bought a bottle of Velvet Gardenia, but it was only a few months ago that I finally managed to try it. The moment I put it on, I was wondering why it took me such a long time to sample it.
Boxeuses is gorgeous too! It was one of my top favorites last year.
Posted by: Victoria | January 11, 2011 at 14:43
You've reminded me of several I want to try...Tuscan Leather, as you describe it, sounds delicious!
Posted by: Alice C | January 11, 2011 at 20:35
Alice, if you like woods, smoky incense and leather notes, then you will find it very interesting. A herbal note is a nice touch as well.
Posted by: Victoria | January 11, 2011 at 20:51
I must try tom ford's scents absolutely this year! Thanks for the great review!
Posted by: Vintage Lady | January 13, 2011 at 15:30
You are welcome! Hope that you will like it.
Posted by: Victoria | January 13, 2011 at 15:36
I really hope I get a chance to try this and Tobacco Vanille out sometime soon. They always sound so interesting, but I find them difficult to imagine (me being new to the wide world of perfumery and all). But your review was very helpful.
I'm glad I stumbled across your blog while looking for a review of Sycomore! Thanks for taking the time to do these posts.
Posted by: MK | January 13, 2011 at 23:24
Matt, I am very glad to hear that you found the reviews helpful! I hope that at least you can make a shortlist and then try a few that catch your eye at first. Tom Ford's line is very large, after all. Tuscan Leather and Tobacco Vanille are in the same family, and I enjoy them both. Tuscan Leather is woodier and drier.
Posted by: Victoria | January 14, 2011 at 10:06