Star rating: 5 stars--outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars--very good, 3 stars--adequate, 2 stars--disappointing, 1 star--poor.
A friend of mine quipped that the signature fragrance choice of Penhaligon's Bluebell by former British prime minister Margaret Thatcher gives new meaning to the term “mixed message.” Indeed, the tough Iron Lady and the fresh, unassuming flower did not seem to mesh in my imagination so I decided to revisit Bluebell. If you are looking for a light, delicate, gentle hyacinth, I recommend that you look elsewhere, because Bluebell is the most brash and jarring watery floral you can find on the market. Come to think of it, that is quite an achievement.
The English house of Penhaligon's was founded in the 1860s by a barber, William Henry Penhaligon, who eventually became Court Barber and Perfumer to Queen Victoria. In 1975, the house was revived by Sheila Pickles, who tried to resuscitate not only the house, but also the traditional 19th century style of perfumery, light colognes and fresh floral blends. Bluebell, created in 1978 by perfumer Michael Pickthall, was the original bestseller and it still remains the most recognizable and well-known offering from Penhaligon's. It is what could be termed a classic.
Being popular does not necessarily imply excellence, though it is possible that Bluebell has been reformulated since it was first launched three decades ago. In its current form, however, I find it essentially unwearable as a fine fragrance. Bluebell opens up on a metallic, green note of remarkable tenacity. The hyacinth impression is formed by the classical marriage of lily of the valley, rose and fruity, green banana notes, with the earthy galbanum enhancing the green effect. A big dose of clove gives hyacinth its characteristic spicy facet. All in all, it is a competent hyacinth accord, but it is as close to the scent of real flowers as the elevator music to the performance by London Philharmonic Orchestra. It is rasping and shrill, with a screechy synthetic feel, ending on the same metallic, high-pitched note that sets the fragrance in action. Given the price of $120 (100ml), one might as well try Demeter Wet Garden ($18) and save $100 for something else more worthwhile.
Penhaligon's Bluebell (also known as Woodland Hyacinth) includes notes of citrus, cyclamen, hyacinth, jasmine, lily of the valley, rose, cinnamon, clove, galbanum. It is available from Penhaligon's stores and online at store likes minnewyork.com and fourseasonsproducts.com. $120 for 100ml. Other fresh, hyacinth, watery rose dominated alternatives include Diptyque Do Son, Diptyque Ofresia, Histoires de Parfums Vert Pivoine, Trish McEvoy Snowdrop & Crystal Flowers #3, L'Artisan Jacinth des Bois (limited edition, if you can find it, it is lovely).
Photo of bluebells from gardenblog.
Sample: my own acquisition
I need to revisit that too. I remember it less harsh than you describe it, but I always smelled my great aunts age old bottle, maybe there has been a change of formula. That would be sad, I have fond memories of the scent from my childhood, I applied it stealthily every time we visited said aunt, and hoped it would not be detected. I think everybody played along and didn`t mention it. :)
Posted by: Olfactoria | February 15, 2011 at 07:01
Bluebell always smelled shrill and sour to me. Maybe it's gotten worse but your review describes well my own impressions of it.
Posted by: Maria145 | February 15, 2011 at 08:49
V, I have nothing to say on the topic of perfume, but your Margaret Thatcher reference had me laughing out loud. Thanks for a great morning read!
Posted by: Jake | February 15, 2011 at 09:04
It always gave me headaches to Migraines. Compared with the real scent in my garden it is the worst scent I ever tried. I don't get anything from any scent of Penhaligons. Well...
Posted by: Gardenfairy Mw | February 15, 2011 at 09:14
In my imaginary movie, Margaret Thatcher found an old bottle someone left in a medicine cabinet at 10 Downing St., thought, "Eh, what the hell," and kept on wearing it.
Shame it's not better - that bottle is so charming.
Posted by: Style Spy | February 15, 2011 at 09:16
I absolutely love this story! I can just imagine a little girl stealthily applying perfume to her neck.
Posted by: Victoria | February 15, 2011 at 10:10
I do not have an old bottle to compare to the more modern samples, but I also remember Bluebell as thin and metallic. Never really liked it, although I always wanted to, because I simply loved the Penhaligon's stores.
Posted by: Victoria | February 15, 2011 at 10:11
You are most welcome! I am even more pleased that I made you smile on this Tuesday morning.
Posted by: Victoria | February 15, 2011 at 10:12
I like Amarantine and Sartorial, but as hard as I try to like the older fragrances, I do not seem to succeed.
Posted by: Victoria | February 15, 2011 at 10:13
I am with you, Penhaligon's packaging is fantastic! Even lotions and shower gels are packaged very nicely. Love the Victorian style graphics too.
Your imaginary story is hysterical! Good thing I finished my tea before I read your comment.
Posted by: Victoria | February 15, 2011 at 10:15
That charming blue of the packaging is so deceiving :)
Posted by: Marina | February 15, 2011 at 10:19
It sure is! :)
Posted by: Victoria | February 15, 2011 at 10:23
Oh I agree! It is certainly jarring. The last time I tried it I couldn't believe that Lady Di and Tilda Swinton used to wear it. There's something sour in there, and the clove was too strong. Do you think it's because of reformulation? Maybe if they hired Duchaufour to update this one too, it could be rescued?
Posted by: kjanicki | February 15, 2011 at 10:30
I loved Bluebells - My bottle was purchased in the mid-90s. Frankly, I can't explain why I love it except perhaps for that unusual over the top hyacinth note. Otherwise, the spicy, bracing quality was not at all like my preferred fragrances at the time. My actual favorite Penhaligon was Victorian Posey, yet I purchased the 100ml splash bottle (mainly for the stoppered bottle which didn't come in the 50ml size). It does go nicely with a crisp linen dress.
I must have given it away though because try as I might, I haven't been able to find it since I moved about 5 yrs ago.
Posted by: OperaFan | February 15, 2011 at 10:36
And Kate Moss, apparently!
I always remember Bluebell as metallic, sour and thin, but without having an older bottle for a side by side comparison, I cannot say whether it is how it always smelled or whether it has been reformulated.
To me, Bluebell smells artificial and rough. I smell L'Artisan Jacinthe des Bois, and it is such a dramatic contrast. That being said, it is still a top-seller for Penhaligon's, so there must be people who love it and appreciate it.
Posted by: Victoria | February 15, 2011 at 11:00
Thank you for reminding me about Victorian Posy, which I recall was quite pretty (and Violetta). I have not smelled either one in ages, so maybe it is time to revisit.
Posted by: Victoria | February 15, 2011 at 11:05
LOL!
Posted by: sweetlife | February 15, 2011 at 11:08
Ha, ha, ha! You so rarely pan something outright I found this very refreshing, V.
It seems like Bluebell is a great example of suggestion trumping reality. With all those great ladies wearing it, the pretty packaging, the sheer BRITISHNESS of it all, one can see why it would keep selling in spite of the scent itself. Indeed, given the long tradition of British self-denial, maybe it sells *because* it is not a dangerous sensual delight...
Posted by: sweetlife | February 15, 2011 at 11:10
:) You would be surprised, but most fragrances created today are not bad, just extremely boring. It is hard to pan something outright, if it is quite well-made, but dull.
You sum up the reasons behind my own fondness for Penhaligon's. I am excited that I like Amarantine, because I can finally buy into that Victorian fantasy (and still find some seduction in it.)
Posted by: Victoria | February 15, 2011 at 11:27
I thought Bluebell was just gorgeous for five minutes, after which it turned into the most hideous chemical nastiness that I couldn't stand it and had to scrub it off (and I rarely do that, I try to suffer through in case something good comes up later). Aaaarrrgh. I love hyacinths - as a matter of fact, I succumbed to a $12 pot of white ones, still mostly in bud, at the grocery store just this morning.
I have a sample of Bas de Soie in my pocket, and am just about to put it on. I do wish I could find some Jacinthe de Bois...
Violetta is awesome, though.
Posted by: Mals86 | February 15, 2011 at 11:28
Real hyacinths have the most wonderful scent! I am very tempted by the ones sold at my local grocery store (already blooming.) Perhaps, once I get home from my trip, I will splurge on a pot. To have that scent of spring in the house would be wonderful.
Posted by: Victoria | February 15, 2011 at 11:33
Ooops, I tried it and found it pretty soft and nice! I try not to smell real hyacinths too much since I am allergic to them, but I do well with a hyacinth accord in perfumes. Maybe I just forgot what they smell like? But I thought Bluebell was pretty nice!
Posted by: Warum | February 15, 2011 at 18:40
I am glad that it works for you. Like I mentioned to Alyssa, I wish it smelled good on me. I find the whole presentation so pretty and charming, almost irresistible.
I once fell asleep in a room full of blooming hyacinths, and I was extremely ill the next day. There is something quite narcotic about their scent.
Posted by: Victoria | February 15, 2011 at 18:51
i am with operafan and warum...i like it...also for the over the top hyacinth note
Posted by: hongkongmom | February 16, 2011 at 00:57
ps...also love lavandula, violetta and artemisa!!!
Posted by: hongkongmom | February 16, 2011 at 00:57
Thank you so much for this review - being a Brit, I am familiar with the Penhaligons shops, and I really love them! Like you, I cannot get on with Bluebell (although hyacinths have the most divine scent and are real harbingers of spring): but I'm delighted about Bernard Duchaufour becoming the inhouse perfumer.
I recently bought Amaranthine (the Penhaligons shop in Cambridge was prettily decorated with butterflies and the S/As all were wearing floaty faery clothes!) and I love its skankiness. Also I like Victorian Posy, which does indeed go well with a linen dress and an English summer garden...
Sorry - just a few thoughts, didn't mean to ramble on. Thank you again!
Posted by: Linda | February 16, 2011 at 06:09
:) After all, it is still the best-seller from Penhaligon's.
Posted by: Victoria | February 16, 2011 at 08:42
Artemisia... I completely forgot about that one. Also, Lily and Spice was nice too.
Posted by: Victoria | February 16, 2011 at 08:44
Linda, thank you, very interesting! I would have liked to see the store decorated like that. I have not been to Penhaligon's stand alone store in a while. Amarantine might be my next purchase.
Posted by: Victoria | February 16, 2011 at 08:51
As you know, V, I worked as a dispensary assistant at Penhaligon's in 1979-80. Sheila Pickles was my boss. I don't know where this erroneous information comes from: she never was a fashion designer. She worked for a large theatrical agency and she was Franco Zefirelli's assistant for a while before buying the shop in Wellington Street and relaunching the perfume house.
I've said it often: Bluebell was the only perfume I always asked someone else to deal with. I couldn't stand it: it was so strident.
Victorian Posy was launched while I was there. It was rather nice.
Posted by: Bela | February 18, 2011 at 21:34
J, thank you for the clarification on Pickles's background. Very interesting! So, she was connected to the theater world, rather than fashion and then ended up buying the shop...
You know, whenever I think of Bluebell, I remember your story of hating it so much that you had to ask someone else to weight it out. I wish I had saved your Penhaligon's story to re-read.
Posted by: Victoria | February 19, 2011 at 08:22
Yes, she was connected to the theatre world - on the management side. I'm emailing you an article that was printed in the London Evening Standard in 1992: it explains it all.
My story (if anyone else is interested) can still be found here: http://belabela.posterous.com/pages/my-adventures-in-the-perfume-world
Posted by: Bela | February 19, 2011 at 09:29
Thank you for the article and for the link, J. I am so pleased that you have the story saved. I love the part about the Arab sheikh, who bought one of everything in the store!
Posted by: Victoria | February 19, 2011 at 10:02
Oddly enough, I just tried this perfume and I liked it. It was unlike anything I'd ever tried before. I'm pretty sensitive perfumes and was unaffected by the scent. I don't think it could ever be a go-to perfume for me, but it was like spring in a bottle but without the allergies.
Anyway, I can tell by your descriptions you have a much more finely tuned nose for scents than I do. Good job on the description and stated opinion, even though I disagree. :)
Posted by: Sarah | August 04, 2011 at 12:18
this review almost actually aggravated me as i love this scent, and the author does seem generally to take particular delight in having a go at penhaligon's, but i then a recalled a friend trying some on as she loves it on me so much she considered buying it for herself... and it was, in fact, awful on her. but i consistently get compliments when i wear it - the sharper, metallic notes fade off right away and don't come back. for a casual brunch or analogous event it's really, really pleasant. it's worth trying to see if might work for you.
Posted by: Flor | August 19, 2011 at 02:59