Sillage (pronounced as see-yazh) is a term used to describe a scented trail left by the fragrance wearer. It comes from the French word for "wake," as in the trail left in the sky by an airplane or on the water by a boat. Sillage defines how fragrance diffuses around the wearer, and a strong sillage means that a fragrance projects well. Sillage has nothing to do with the richness of the composition, however, but rather with the diffusive nature of the materials that go into it. For instance, hedione, fresh floral notes and some types of musk are extremely diffusive and radiant, while retaining an airy, light character.
Fragrances with a strong sillage include such rich compositions like Guerlain L’Heure Bleue, Lancôme Trésor, and Christian Dior Poison as well as light, ethereal blends like Bulgari Eau Parfumée au Thé Vert and Christian Dior Eau Sauvage. Conversely, minimal sillage fragances are ones that stay close to the skin and create a more intimate scented aura. Some examples include Comme de Garçons Avignon (Incense Series) and Prada Infusion d’Iris, Chanel 31, rue Cambon.
Generally, the most complimented fragrances are the ones with a strong sillage, but I find that depending on my mood, I alternate between diffusive and intimate fragrances. Plus, in some circumstances (office environment, theater outings, restaurants, etc.,) it is also a good idea to keep one's fragrant trail as understated as possible.
This term I understand it but it can change sometimes depending on the atmosphere and climate? I think that for example Cartier de Lune has a special sillage, because in my case, when I put it on, i don't smell it all the time on me, but at times a wave comes out, and after some minutes i feel another one, it goes like this, it is like a wave, comes and goes. Perhaps this is sillage.
Posted by: Vintage Lady | February 14, 2011 at 05:13
I think that what you describe seems more like the case of olfactory overload. At some point, we stop smelling our own perfume, because our nose gets too saturated with the smell to perceive it. However, as the olfactory receptors reset (say, you inhale deeply or smell some other very different scent,) then you can begin to perceive it again. It is cyclical, so your description makes perfect sense to me. And yes, you would be smelling your own sillage.
Posted by: Victoria | February 14, 2011 at 10:15
Very interesting. I'll try to figure out what sort of sillage my perfumes have.
On another note, do you know why it is impossible to find 1000 parfum? All I can find is shower gel, EDP, and occasionally the body lotion. I really prefer the parfum. Is Patou discontinuing it?
Love your blog!
Martha
Posted by: Martha1108 | February 14, 2011 at 12:11
Martha, thank you!
I believe that Neiman Marcus/Bergdorf Goodman still have it. I saw the bottles at NM in Chicago a few months ago. Online, I see it at Amazon.com.
I think that these days the retailers stock less and less of extrait de parfum, but the fragrance in that form is not discontinued as far as I know. Perhaps, its distribution is just limited.
Posted by: Victoria | February 14, 2011 at 12:29
Victoria, It's all eau de parfum, which if I recall correctly did not smell the same as the parfum. I've just got a little bit of the perfume left. I checked BG, NM, Saks 5th, Amazon, all have EDP. Am I mistaken about the difference between the EDP and P?
Maybe I'll have to actually go to the Galleria to see the stock. Bummer.
Thanks for the reply!
Martha
Posted by: Martha1108 | February 14, 2011 at 12:40
Martha, try searching for "1000 by Jean Patou for Women 0.5 oz Parfum Classic Flacon" in Amazon. I get a listing for $250.
I would call NM or BG, because I remember 1000 pure parfum (although they have the EDP as well) being sold there. I noticed, because I was with my friend, who wanted to purchase it. Also, the website did not have it listed, only the actual brick & mortar store carried the parfum.
Posted by: Victoria | February 14, 2011 at 12:45
That was it! I found it on Amazon. Thanks so much!
And in keeping with the topic of this post, would you say it has a strong sillage? I don't put on much, so am not sure I can tell. And do you pronounce it sill-age with a short i, or as the French would?
Posted by: Martha1108 | February 14, 2011 at 12:51
1000 has a great sillage, it is strong, but it is not heavy, very elegant. A neighbor wears it, and I love it whenever I leave just after she does. I get a whiff of her sillage and it really makes my morning.
Here is a link where you can actually here how it is pronounced: http://french.about.com/od/vocabulary/g/sillage.htm
It is pronounced as see yazh.
Posted by: Victoria | February 14, 2011 at 13:01
Actually, after I posted, I found online a link to another website that gives pronunciation of many different French perfume names and words:
http://belabela.posterous.com/
Bela has a lovely voice too, an added bonus!
Posted by: Victoria | February 14, 2011 at 13:04
I hadn't known what sillage meant for quite some time. For me my desired sillage is entirely dependent on my mood; brash=much sillage, like Le Labo's Patchouli 24, quiet equals less sillage, like S-Perfume's s-Ex. I apply with a bit of a heavy hand, though, anyway.
Posted by: Joan | February 15, 2011 at 08:48
I agree, same for me. Sometimes I want something intimate, staying close to the skin; others I crave a bolder presence.
Posted by: Victoria | February 15, 2011 at 10:03
Victoria - great article! Have you happened to try or smell on other people the following:
L'Instant de Guerlain pour Homme EdT and EdP;
Terre d'Hermes EdT;
Heritage de Guerlain;
These are my top 3 fragrances in my wardrobe - sometimes they seem not as projective as I wish them to be, probably my nose gets used to the scent after a while. If you have tried, what do you think about their sillage?
Thank you!!!
Posted by: LostArgonaut | February 18, 2011 at 23:40
I love these three fragrances, always happy to talk about them! L'Instant de Guerlain pour Homme and Heritage de Guerlain are of medium sillage to me, I definitely notice them, but they are the kind of fragrances that require me moving closer to the person to notice what exactly they are wearing.
Terre d'Hermes, on the other hand, has a great sillage. People comment on Terre d'Hermes even when I myself do not smell it anymore. Whenever one of my friends wears it, I immediately notice and recognize it as Terre d'Hermes. Its effect is similar to Bulgari The Vert--great sillage, but it is airy and transparent.
Posted by: Victoria | February 19, 2011 at 08:34
I think the same too - the scent life of the l'Instant Eau Extreme (EdP) seems very enduring though, while another Guerlain - Vetiver Eau Glaceu seems to have a loud sillage similar to that of Terre d'Hermes. I'd like to try it in Parfum edition for supposedly softer notes. Thank you Victoria, and keep us engaged with such a fun topic!
Posted by: LostArgonaut | February 19, 2011 at 12:34
It is my pleasure! I love this topic too.
I also really want to try the parfum version of Terre d'Hermes. The idea of softer miner notes and a richer vetiver accord sounds very appealing.
Posted by: Victoria | February 19, 2011 at 12:48