L'Artisan Parfumeur Timbuktu : Perfume Review

Star rating: 5 stars--outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars--very good, 3 stars--adequate, 2 stars--disappointing, 1 star--poor.

The striking feature of L’Artisan Parfumeur Timbuktu, a dry composition of woods, vetiver and incense, is its incredible radiance. The fragrance has a marvelous soaring quality, from the top notes of pepper and citrus to the earthy drydown of patchouli and musk. It is as if the dark, dense notes are interspersed with fresh, effervescent layers, resulting in a fragrance that combines the rich warmth of cognac with the shimmery brightness of champagne.

Timbuktu was created by perfumer Bertrand Duchaufour in 2004 as part of L’Artisan’s voyage collection, and was inspired by his travels in Mali, Africa. The fragrance is built as a classical composition of dry woods, with vetiver, sandalwood and patchouli forming a beautiful triptych. This vivid combination sets the prelude for Timbuktu, with pepper and grapefruit lending it an appealing freshness. Yet surprisingly, the freshness expands further as the composition dries down. It is not the conventional note of citrus or generic lavender, but rather the brightness of wood sap and sweet pine resin. As Timbuktu changes on the skin from spicy incense to smoky woods, its freshness takes on a beguiling and sensual character. In the late drydown, Timbuktu is remarkably similar to the sweet and salty intimacy of warm skin.

Of all L’Artisan fragrances, Timbuktu is by far the most innovative and memorable. It achieves not only a sustained radiance and great diffusion, but also evolves beautifully. Every time I wear it, I find something else to admire about this simple, yet remarkably polished fragrance—a rich note of incense, the chilly burst of green herbal notes, the seductive caress of vanilla. A similar contrast was later explored by Terre d’Hermès, a runaway commercial success for Jean-Claude Ellena. Timbuktu has a darker, moodier beauty about it, however, which never fails to move me. It is my fragrance of choice for days whenever I want something androgynous, yet with a brooding, dramatic character.

L’Artisan Parfumeur Timbuktu (fragrance family: dry woods) includes notes of pink pepper, green mango, coffee bush flower, karo karounde, cumin, myrrh, patchouli, vetiver, musk, incense, and vanilla. It is worth exploring if you enjoy Tom Ford Tuscan Leather, Comme des Garçons Tea (Series 1 Leaves), Jo Malone 154 and vetiver rich fragrances. The L’Artisan line is available from Aedes, Beautycafe, Beautyhabit, and Luckyscent, as well as Henri Bendel, Bergdorf Goodman, Barneys, and Neiman Marcus.

Sample: my own acquisition.

Comments

[Olfactoria]

This is another one on my "must try eventually" list and your review did nothing to change that. ;)

[Ines]

I love Timbuktu. I don't wear it often but I love it. It clears my thinking and lifts off stress from my shoulders. I find it very useful when dealing with problems I'm not sure how to solve.

[*jen]

I need to try this now. I am craving scents like this at the moment.

[patuxxa]

I adore Timbuktu, no other scent I've ever sniffed gives such an amazing feeling of clarity. It makes me think of crisp, clear morning skies. In fact, a while ago I found this photo on Wiki Commons and thought, "exactly!" I don't think any other scent has given me such strong visual cues as Timbuktu.

http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Timbuktu_huts.jpg

PS: Curiously enough, today I'm wearing Bois Farine - the scent of a kitchen when you've just finished putting your cake in the oven.

[Todd T]

Its like I am immune to this one. Every time I smell it, I go oh thats interesting, but when I put it on me, I get nothing! Has anyone ever had that happen? I really do like how its smells on a test strip, on me I just don't smell it.

[Linda Fey]

Thank you Victoria for this lovely review.
I came close to visiting Timbuktu many years ago,
when I came to Mali. But alas my time had run out and we had to
return to Ghana.
When I smelled this wonderful fragrance last year, I instantly fell
in love....felt as if, somehow, I had actually made it to
Timbuktu!
It is indeed very special.
Smiles.
L

[Victoria]

I can see why! It uses some quite heavy woody aroma-materials, to which some people may be slightly less sensitive. I have noticed it with some woody-ambers, and BD uses them quite lavishly in his formulas.

[Victoria]

I hope that you will try it soon, it is excellent!

[Victoria]

It definitely functions the same for me, and you've put it nicely.

[Victoria]

I love vetiver and various takes on its theme.

[sweetlife]

Thank you for this lovely review. So glad this one is still around and intact. Duchaufour seems to have a knack for hitting that sweet spot between weirdness and viability, doesn't he?

[Victoria]

Clarity is really an incredible feature of Timbuktu, and it is the first thing of which I become aware whenever I put it on. I love how it maintains this brilliant quality and yet retains a certain dusky, brooding moodiness about it.

I love the photo, thank you for posting the link!

[Victoria]

I have never visited Africa, and it is someplace I really hope to go at some point. I can close, I saw its shores, but never stepped on its soil.

The fact that Timbuktu connected with your memories of Africa makes it even more special somehow.

[Victoria]

He really does, and it is the reason why I admire his work so much. It does not mean that I want to wear everything he creates, but for the most part, it really makes me think. His compositions are really quite memorable.

[bloody frida]

This fragrance always makes me happy for some reason! thanks for the lovely review

[Marina]

Oh, a pang of nostalgia! :)

[Olfacta]

Halloween night, last year, I was celebrating the holiday with some friends, and found a decant of Timbuktu in an evening purse I'd put there previously and forgotten. We had ourselves a little unisex Timbuktu sniff-a-thon. Everyone loved it and it always reminds me of that night.

[Gitcheegumee]

Y'all had me at "clarity of thinking". Heck,I'd GO to Timbuktu for that possibilty !

Sounds like this fragrance is right down my alley. Woody and peppery? Corruscating cognac?

Where's my passport?

Thanks,V.

BTW,off topic: I received the Bellodgia last evening. Incroyable! At first whiff,I thought of Old Spice(which I adore thanks to a former paramour)-then it dried down into a glorious scent with good sillage.

I may never actually make it to Lake Como,but with Bellagio in a bottle of Bellodgia,my daydreams are now infused with the voluptuous scent of that region.

Thank you so much for the suggestion.

[Skilletlicker]

I am so thrilled that you have FINALLY reviewed this exquisite idiosyncratic scent. It is my favorite L'Artisan, maybe my favorite scent of all. And now this review is my favorite of all your reviews. I also really like Dzongkha from the voyage series and third would be Poivre Piquant. Thank you!

[Dionne]

OK, you definitely convinced me. Timbuktu has just moved to the top of my TBS list (aka to-be-sampled, a phrase I borrowed from the book blogger community, the TBR pile) My TBS list is starting to resemble my mental TBR pile in terms of sheer length.

[Victoria]

I'm so glad that it has so many fans! It's really one of the best L'Artisan fragrances.

[Victoria]

... for your L'Artisan days? :)

[Victoria]

That's such a great memory!
Whenever I try to introduce someone to niche perfumery (or to good perfumery in general, that's different from the mainstream lines,) I always take them to a L'Artisan counter. It offers so many different options.

[Victoria]

I was so pleased to read these comments, and it is really fascinating to see how many of us think of Timbuktu in a similar way--crisp, brilliant, radiant. And not just in terms of how it smells, but also how it makes us feel. That's quite interesting!

Thank you for your comments about Bellodgia. I am so happy that it resonated with you. The other day, with our recent conversation about it on my mind, I stopped by the Caron counter and revisited it. So beautiful!

[Victoria]

Thank you, I am happy that I could please. :) It is not difficult to find something positive to say about Timbuktu, because it is exquisite, as you said so well. And quite memorable too.
Dzongkha is my other top favorite from L'Artisan.

[Victoria]

As I read your comment, I glanced around the room at the towering piles of to-be-read books. Yes, I can relate so well to what you describe!!

[OperaFan]

Timbuktu smells horrible on me, but on my husband, it's as if it's a different perfume entirely. He liked its quality enough that I gave it to him 2 Christmases ago to replace his emptied bottle of Eau du Fier (since it's no longer obtainable outside France). I sampled Dzonka only once a couple of years ago, but really liked its exotic herbal freshness - at least the way I recall it.

[Victoria]

That's a great description of Dzongkha! I think of it this way myself (plus, iris incense!)

[key change]

I always get a bit nervous when scents are described as androgenous, because I'm typically drawn towards traditionally feminine scents; however, you have a way with words that basically makes me want to try everything you review. I may be wrong, but I think there may be an L'Artisin counter at a Holt renfrew in this country of mine with not nearly enough perfume. How I wish I had a perfume buddy!

[Natalia]

Oh, I'm so in love with Timbuktu! Your beautiful, as always, review, V, was the last straw - i'm on my way to find a full bottle... It's not only unusual, radiant and comforting, but just as you have noted, resembles the sweet and salty skin notes - very intimate and sexy.

[Victoria]

I believe that Holt Renfrew does carry L'Artisan, if I am not mistaken. Maybe, other Canadians can chime in and correct me.

You have plenty of perfume buddies here! :)

[Victoria]

I am happy that you also see the sweet-salty interplay in Timbuktu. It is one of my favorite aspects of it.

[aotearoa]

This and Dzing! are my favourite L'Artisans. Timbuktu took a while for me to appreciate and it's mt next bottle when the budget allows...
Lovely review.

[Dionne]

I don't think it does - I just checked out the Holt Renfrew website, and L'Artisan is not listed under the fragrances they carry, and I haven't seen it in the Calgary Holt Renfrew. However, the Toronto and Vancouver stores carry lines not available at other locations (Frederic Malle *sigh* the Les Exclusifs *swoon*), so if the website is in error you might find L'Artisan there.

[Victoria]

Timbuktu was an immediate love for me either. It definitely grew on me over time. I love Dzing! too.

[Victoria]

L'Artisan website is maddening, I cannot figure out where they actually sell their perfumes in brick & mortar.

Yet, I do see this number for US and Canada retail:
Customer Service toll free # 877-601-0440

[axum]

I've been to Timbuktu, but I've never sniffed this. After reading your review, a sample is on order :)

[Victoria]

Oh, it is a must for you! I would be curious if it does make you think of Africa.

[violetnoir]

I am wearing this today, and you are right, V! Timbuktu has a luminous quality to it.

Hugs!

[Victoria]

For some reason, I find it just perfect for these crisp, early spring days!

[Lynn Morgan]

Sounds swoon worthy!

[Victoria]

It is wonderful!