Star rating: 5 stars--outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars--very good, 3 stars--adequate, 2 stars--disappointing, 1 star--poor.
Fleurs d’Oranger is an orange blossom that pretends to be a tuberose. Or perhaps vice versa. Either way, this Serge Lutens composition dispels any illusions about flowers being sheer, pretty and delicate. Fleurs d’Oranger is sultry and opulent and is one of the most dramatic floral compositions, oscillating between the honeyed sweetness of white blossoms and the salty muskiness of sunwarmed skin.
Created in 1995 by Christopher Sheldrake, the perfumer responsible for most of the Serge Lutens collection, Fleurs d’Oranger is a fragrance for those who cannot get enough lush, white floral notes. Jasmine, orange blossom and tuberose are used in bold strokes to create the main outline of the composition. The fragrance opens up on a note of mandarin and Concord grape (or wild strawberry, depending on one’s cultural background). This sweet, juicy effect occurs naturally in orange blossom and tuberose. To create an especially vivid and striking sensation, Sheldrake amplifies it dramatically. The salty, woody note of cumin gives the floral heart a seductive aura.
As the composition dries down, the cool rose notes create a welcome counterpoint to the heaving mass of blossoms. A sheer accord of musk and cedarwood provides a soft foil for the final orange blossom and tuberose chords of Fleurs d’Oranger. While the honeyed richness of the composition is retained throughout its development, the polished simplicity of the drydown makes it more balanced.
Fleurs d’Oranger was reformulated recently, though even the new version is quite beautiful. The main difference is that it feels fresher and brighter, with the honeyed heft of orange blossom and tuberose being somewhat lightened. The spicy notes are likewise toned down and there is a stronger candy sweet note of vanilla in the drydown. Comparatively, I find the new Fleurs d’Oranger more luminous and easier to wear. Nevertheless, if one expects a well-behaved and demure floral, discovering the true nature of this fragrance will be a shock. It is unabashedly decadent, heady and rich. Make the mistake of applying more than one spray, and you will find yourself searching for some air. Beautiful, but quite demanding, so proceed with caution.
Serge Lutens Fleurs d’Oranger includes notes of neroli, orange blossom, white jasmine, Indian tuberose, white rose, cumin, wood and musk. While it is not in the same olfactory profile, Fleurs d’Oranger evokes to me the spirit of Christian Dior Poison and Giorgio Beverly Hills. It is really that bold! Fleurs d’Oranger is sold in the export range. The export line of fragrances is available from Aedes, Beautyhabit, Luckyscent, Barneys, Bergdorf Goodman, and from some Neiman Marcus locations.
Just last week an SA tried to sell me this as a light summer cologne-style fragrance, I wonder if she ever tried it? And how she will react if she does?
It is just like you say, a shock indeed, I can appreciate it for its well-made opulence, but for me it is a bit too much of a good thing. :)
Posted by: Olfactoria | March 09, 2011 at 07:34
Love this! Just bought a FB: I was looking for a sheer scent, but came away with this instead. So much happier.
Posted by: Pklagrange | March 09, 2011 at 08:18
I like SL FdO for its butteriness and thickness, so I am sad to hear that the new version is fresher and brighter :(
Posted by: Marina | March 09, 2011 at 08:38
I fell hard for this after several years of being sure I didn't like orange blossom. It was my gateway, if you can believe it, to the much sheerer, more sparkly stuff. On the right days my bottle is just a sensual delight. It practically changes the way I walk. But goodness, there are some wrong days, with that cumin. Am curious to try the brighter version, though the vanilla note doesn't sound promising.
Laughing at Olfactoria's story...
Posted by: sweetlife | March 09, 2011 at 09:44
AHHHH! This explains why the people I've heard wax ecstatic about out love it so. Though now I'm feeling badly for those who are going to be disappointed by the reformulation, I'm thinking I'm ready to give it a whirl in either iteration.
Thanks for the review. :)
Posted by: ScentScelf | March 09, 2011 at 09:48
If she tries it as such in the summer, it will be her just punishment for misleading the innocent customers. :)
I love white floral notes and I like them rich and opulent, but FdO tests even my limits. Summer cologne it is not!
Posted by: Victoria | March 09, 2011 at 11:34
For a sheer, yet with substance from Lutens, I love Fleur de Citronnier. Layered with anything vetiver, it becomes especially amazing.
Posted by: Victoria | March 09, 2011 at 11:36
Even the new version is plenty buttery and thick, so I do not think that you will be that disappointed.
Posted by: Victoria | March 09, 2011 at 11:36
Alyssa, your comment resonates completely with how I feel about FdO. On some days, it can give me a migraine in a snap. On others, it has, just like you noted, one of the most sensual, delightful aura of any perfume I own. Maybe, it depends on my mood too. Yesterday, as I wore it to finish this review, it was just so perfect. I even got several compliments on it.
Ultimately, this duality is what attracts me. Maybe, I just like to be challenged a bit. :)
Posted by: Victoria | March 09, 2011 at 11:42
Do try the new version then! Perhaps, it might just be toned down enough for you.
Posted by: Victoria | March 09, 2011 at 11:43
Oh- I didn't know they reformulated it..Do you know when?
I bought my bottle a year or so ago (online) and even though it is a beautiful perfume- I actually don't find it opulent or sultry (Ala Nuit- now that is opulent- in a good way, I mean). In fact, I would put it in the 'breezy-summery-with just enough depth', category (though it is honeyed and sweet). So, now I am wondering whether I have the reformulated version, or if I just perceive this perfume differently from you..I want what you described!!..lol
Posted by: Lavanya | March 09, 2011 at 15:54
I just read Olfactoria's comment and your reply..lol. not even a little bit summery??..:)
Posted by: Lavanya | March 09, 2011 at 16:08
Interesting review and comments. I have gone through a couple of samples and sometimes loved it and at other times found it too oppressive so the new version interests me. Can I be sure that it will be the reformulated version on sale everywhere?
Posted by: chrisb | March 09, 2011 at 16:09
Yes, sounds like you have the reformulated version. Even two years ago, I already remember it as being different. The new version is much less buttery.
Posted by: Victoria | March 09, 2011 at 17:26
Maybe, in a small dose, but for me, one spray is already too much. This is the perfume I dab on. :)
Posted by: Victoria | March 09, 2011 at 17:27
Whatever is sold in the stores today would be the reformulated version. I like it in its current version too, even though I cherish my old bottle. The present version is just more wearable for me.
Posted by: Victoria | March 09, 2011 at 17:28
aww..Now- I really need to try the older version. I would love for the honeyed flowers (which is what makes the older version 'thicker') to be more pronounced in the version I own- though i can imagine it getting cloying if over-sprayed..Now that you mention it- I did order a sample from beauty habit a while ago and I think that was denser (and more 'luscious') than the one I currently own- but I thought I was getting used to the fragrance and therefore imagining these differences..now I know!
Posted by: Lavanya | March 09, 2011 at 18:37
That dense, luscious quality is what I love (and many hate) about Robert Piguet Fracas as well. Another challenging perfume!
Posted by: Victoria | March 09, 2011 at 18:54
Ironically, with Fracas- I couldn't really handle the denseness after a bit. It is almost weird with fracas for me- I dab- its lovely, then I dab some more- and suddenly wham- I can't handle the scent anymore. Just too buttery without the balancing luminosity that FdO or TC have. I need to revisit Fracas though, now that I'm learning not to match tuberose perfumes with the scent of the actual flower (both FdO and TC evoke the flower but Fracas just doesn't)- I think I might be able to appreciate Fracas more now.
Posted by: Lavanya | March 09, 2011 at 19:10
Yes, Fracas has that quality for me as well, without doubt! I also dab it. Too much, and it is a nightmare for me.
Tubereuse Criminelle is remarkably close to the scent of real flowers, if exaggerated and magnified in some extreme ways.
Posted by: Victoria | March 09, 2011 at 19:15
Yes- I find that Tubereuse Criminelle is the only tuberose perfume which smells so much like the flowers or atleast evokes the same feeling as the flowers do. I almost think it accomplishes this because of the magnification, maybe- sort of like how a piece of fiction can hit on the truth, often better than non fiction can?
Posted by: Lavanya | March 09, 2011 at 19:32
Totally agree! Or like a caricature makes a famous face more recognizable than a simple photograph does.
Posted by: Victoria | March 09, 2011 at 19:34
Oh wow, I'd been obsessing about this scent for a while, so it's kind of fortuitous that you reviewed it!
The reformulated version sounds so attractive that I'm contemplating purchasing it unsniffed, but I've never done that in my life and so I'm scared; however, I can't find a single place in this city that sells it. Do you guys know of any places online that sell samples?
Posted by: key change | March 10, 2011 at 00:31
Whoa ladies!
Compared to many/most of you, I am what I term a perfume virgin, but I just, just, just! discovered The Perfume Court! I saw and FDO sample there--do you guys think it'll be the reformulation?
This discover of mine is so, so dangerous. The samples are ridiculously expensive for this poor, struggling student.
Posted by: key change | March 10, 2011 at 03:13
It is probably the reformulation.
We all started out like this, so what you describe is so familiar to me! :)
Posted by: Victoria | March 10, 2011 at 07:32
Oh, do try it before buying, Lutens fragrances tend to be polarizing. Even the safest ones.
The Posh Peasant, The Perfumed Court, Aedes and probably Luckyscent should have samples for sale.
Posted by: Victoria | March 10, 2011 at 07:32
I know! to my friends here, I seem to be the ultimate perfumista, but on blogs like these, I feel like a drunken stumbling newbie who's overwhelmed with all the options while cursing my bank account! yes, I think I'll order some samples--it'd be interesting to see though what people have purchased unsniffed and have liked vs. what they regretted!
Posted by: key change | March 10, 2011 at 08:44
tightening my grip on my 5-year-old bottle of FdO.... :-)
Posted by: sara | March 10, 2011 at 10:33
Hey, there are many times I feel overwhelmed myself, so this never goes away. :) I feel that in fragrance, the learning process never stops, which is what keeps it interesting for me.
Posted by: Victoria | March 10, 2011 at 12:00
Me too, challenging, but so so beautiful!
Posted by: Victoria | March 10, 2011 at 19:42
FdO is one of my favorite fragrances, and it is one of the few scents that my husband has ever given me as a gift. It's not one that you can pick up and wear with abandon though because it can be an instant migraine trigger on a bad day. I don't notice the cumin much thankfully. I do think that it is a beautiful, sometimes difficult fragrance, and it makes me happy! I'm trying to remember how old my bottle is - more than 2 years, I think. I am pretty sure that it is not the reformulation.
Posted by: KathyT | March 11, 2011 at 09:49
Kathy, I love how plush and utterly glamorous FdO feels on a good day. Its aura is really quite irresistible. Even next to Fracas and Carnal Flower, it can easily hold its own, which is not an easy feat!
Posted by: Victoria | March 11, 2011 at 10:43
Lovely review of FdO.... I bought it today and i'm sooo happy! It's a fragrance that really put you up in a good mood... and I love tuberose and orange blossoms!!!!
My fav fragrance di Tuberose Criminelle.... but it's dark and misterious... Fdo is completely the opposite to me... Both stunning!
My compliments to your blog... I've been reading it for years now... is my MUST read daily!
Guido
Posted by: guido | December 23, 2011 at 16:34
Thank you for your kind words! :)
Posted by: Victoria | December 23, 2011 at 16:57