Star rating: 5 stars--outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars--very good, 3 stars--adequate, 2 stars--disappointing, 1 star--poor.
With Un Jardin sur le Toit, Hermès in-house perfumer Jean-Claude Ellena recreates not just the scent of wet soil, green leaves and flower buds, but the joyful atmosphere of a garden party. There is something joyful and vivacious about this newest fragrance from Hermès which is inspired by roof top gardens. While the composition plays with some interesting green apple and mossy-woody ideas, it essentially reads as a crisp, sheer rose on the skin.
Although I very much enjoy the idea of Un Jardin sur le Toit, I find it unexciting to wear and lacking the comparatively strong character of the previous Les Jardins. Moreover, as time goes on, Un Jardin sur le Toit loses its charm, and the flatness of soft woods and vetiver wrapped in musk makes it rather less enchanting than the initial brilliance might suggest. While the fragrance gives its wearer a pleasant aura, it is quite ephemeral. After a couple of hours, I cannot detect much on the skin other than a whisper of musk, moss, vetiver and tart fruit. Die-hard fans of Jean-Claude Ellena’s crystalline style will find it lovely, while those of us who prefer more voluptuous compositions might find Un Jardin sur le Toit too ethereal and pale.
Hermès Un Jardin sur le Toit includes notes of apple, pear, magnolia, rose and green herbs. It has been launched at Hermès boutiques; wider distribution will follow later this spring.
Sample: my own acquisition
Hmm... don't know about the fragrance itself, I'm hoping the department stores will have it when I go this weekend- but I love that image. It's nice to see illustrations instead of the usual photography!
Posted by: RH | April 07, 2011 at 03:56
I find myself wearing Toit often these days, even after I reviewed it, because I am drawn to its carefree exuberance. I also find the drydown quite long lasting on my skin. I am happy with this newest Jardin. :)
Posted by: Olfactoria | April 07, 2011 at 04:01
I love Hermes illustrations in general, so lovely and delicate. They actually match the fragrances well.
Posted by: Victoria | April 07, 2011 at 07:29
I'm so glad that it works for you. I have been wearing it a lot lately, but I just do not find it that compelling. Oh well, lots more from Hermes to enjoy!
Posted by: Victoria | April 07, 2011 at 07:30
I wasn't impressed by Ellena creations at all, except by Un jardin apres la Mousson, but I'm always ready to fall in love with something. As said RH, hope department stores give me that chance.
Posted by: Irina | April 07, 2011 at 08:16
I actually like quite a few of his creations. First, and Eau Parfumée in particular. Of his Jardins Mousson is probably my favourite. I am bound to try this one as well. It seems that you more or less share your view of this scent with Octavian who reviewed it a couple of days ago. Liking it to a certain extent but not exactly loving it.
Posted by: Austenfan | April 07, 2011 at 08:30
Thanks for the review and its lovely illustration. I'm not going to seek this out, delightful as it sounds, at least to begin with. And now I apologise in advance for a little rant. JCE composes some beautiful scents but why are they all so anorexic! I wore Brin de Reglisse the other day, 2 hours tops, and my other Hermessence favourite, the Osmanthus one is just as bad. I got home and lavishly applied MDCI Invasion Barbare on one arm and Enlevement au Serail on the other and felt much better. I know, you can't have everything and I am acting spoilt, especially when there are beauties like the MDCI's to fall back on when you want something more full figured, but I wish JCE would compose something with more flesh!
Posted by: nstephens | April 07, 2011 at 09:05
That's my favorite Jardin too, the others I'm not crazy about either.
Posted by: Victoria | April 07, 2011 at 09:09
You and I agree then. Those are my favorites from Ellena too (and Cartier Declaration.) Un Jardin sur le Toit just seems like an etude, not a fully finished perfume.
Off to read Octavian's review, I usually agree with his perspectives, and I'm curious what others who have tried this perfume think. It must have its fans.
Posted by: Victoria | April 07, 2011 at 09:13
Very warranted rant, IMO. I feel the same way--these are beautiful ideas, but I miss some flesh too. Even the ethereal The Vert has more substance than some of the Hermessence. Still, I love Osmanthe Yunnan and Ambre Narguile.
Posted by: Victoria | April 07, 2011 at 09:15
Sur le Toit has some of the same notes as Goutal's Petite Cherie (which I love as a summer bedtime/comfort/childhood memory sort of scent), though I'd imagine JSlT would be more apple than pear, and possibly more earthy than PC. Can you compare them, V? Thanks.
Posted by: mals86 | April 07, 2011 at 09:46
I was first drawn to this house of perfumes by the beautiful bottles and illustrations. The colors made me think of the sea and sky, beautiful and warm places. The first bottle I bought was Un jardin apres la Mousson, after reading your review Victoria and seeing the lovely bottle on a shelf at Nordstroms. Having been to India once (I must go back!) I thought it just perfect. I love it. (I do enjoy hermes les merveilles on occasion as well). Un Jardin sur le Toit sounds interesting. I'll have to try a sample. I love the illustration, and as always, your review. Thank you :-)
Posted by: linda fey | April 07, 2011 at 11:48
They are not at all alike to my nose. Jardin is a crisp, green rose-apple, Petite Cherie is milkier, creamier peach-pear. If you imagine Rose Ikebana with a green apple, you get the idea of this new Jardin.
Posted by: Victoria | April 07, 2011 at 12:15
haven't liked any of the jardins, and frankly none of ellena's recent work has inspired me to buy... but this one sounds worth at least a try. voluptuous is more my style :) (wearing amaranthine to prove it!)
Posted by: minette | April 07, 2011 at 14:27
Ah. And I thought RI was sort of... boring... so guess this one is not going to be me, either. Good to know, thanks!
Posted by: mals86 | April 07, 2011 at 14:39
I like Un Jardin Apres la Mousson very much--watery fruit with a rich cardamom note. It has such brilliance and vibrancy. I wish Un Jardin sur le Toit had some similar memorable twist. It is a bit too well-mannered.
Posted by: Victoria | April 07, 2011 at 15:42
I would be curious what you think. While it is certainly not voluptuous, if you like green fruity-florals, it can work.
Posted by: Victoria | April 07, 2011 at 15:42
I am not a fan of Rose Ikebana either. I much prefer YSL In Love Again for a similar idea.
Posted by: Victoria | April 07, 2011 at 15:42
I would love to see the formulas for Ellena's fragrances from the past 15-20 years. So many of them smell so similar to me, I assume it must be that he uses large quantities of the same aroma materials over and over.
Posted by: Elisa | April 07, 2011 at 16:03
V, sounds like you liked it even less than I did.
Posted by: Robin | April 07, 2011 at 16:08
I think that it is common for a perfumer to find a certain key accord and play around with it. It gives a certain fingerprint to the finished fragrance. On the other hand, many of JCE's fragrances do feel very similar to me. Granted, he is still among the most talented perfumers working today. I always look forward to exploring his new fragrances.
Posted by: Victoria | April 07, 2011 at 16:18
I thought that you might not like it that much.
I just wish it had a stronger character.
Posted by: Victoria | April 07, 2011 at 16:20
Yes, I love when perfumers have a clear vision or signature ... but I've realized that JCE's signature isn't one I really care for. :) This is good, it saves me a lot of money! There are a handful of perfumers I tend to obsessively stalk, and I don't need another one, especially the in-house guy for Hermes, not exactly a bargain brand.
Posted by: Elisa | April 07, 2011 at 17:03
A few Hermessence have given me good impressions, Among them, Vanille Galante is a mystery for me, as I am not particularly fan of each note but the total turns to be totally unexpected. Fragrance is fascinating, isn't it? I am wearing Vetiver Tonka today.
Kaori
Posted by: k-amber | April 07, 2011 at 21:53
I have to agree. I admire his talent, but many of the recent fragrances just do not resonate with me. Still, I always look forward to smelling them.
Posted by: Victoria | April 08, 2011 at 06:43
Oh, I completely forgot Vetiver Tonka! Another marvelous Hermessence. My recent favorite has been Ambre Narguile, which also gets lots of compliments for me.
Posted by: Victoria | April 08, 2011 at 06:45
I didn't like Toit at all. I can only smell thyme on my skin!
Posted by: Capucine | October 20, 2011 at 18:05
Jardin Toit is amazing *^_^* Sweet and sour fragrances are really my thing (Petite Cherie and Mitsouko are other favourites of mine). I love Jean-Claude Ellena's recent work, I think he's a genius and these Jardin fragrances are the first to peak my interest in a while. I do wish people wouldn't give JC such a hard time, there are other lines out there for those who don't 'get' these fragrances. Like any niche, they cater to a specific audience instead of trying to please everyone through being inoffensive or having too many notes. Some of us really like these scents :) Wearing it now, I think of green gummy bears, green roses and juicy sour pears. Despite the 'gummy bear' association, it also feels very natural to me. Not a bit artificial. It's amazing how pears and roses really bring each other out with their similarities, I heard somewhere that Annick Goutal created CSoJ on that premise.
Posted by: Clockw0rkCat | January 06, 2012 at 13:52
devine essence indeed
Posted by: mabel | February 27, 2012 at 02:41