Star rating: 5 stars--outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars--very good, 3 stars--adequate, 2 stars--disappointing, 1 star--poor.
The combination of rose and musk often results in a velvety, languorous effect, even if the rose is rendered as a sheer, crisp note. This is certainly the case with Narciso Rodriguez Essence, a fragrance that takes the classical aldehydic floral idea of Chanel No 5 and Lanvin Arpège and presents it as a streamlined rose musk composition. While Essence has a monolithic quality—the soft rose and musk impression is retained from top to bottom, it is a fragrance with a big sillage and distinctive presence. Caressing and tender, it wears like the olfactory equivalent of a soft silk slip, while possessing an alluring retro glamor.
Essence was created by perfumer Alberto Morillas for the fashion designer brand Narciso Rodriguez in 2009. Morillas is well known for creating sensual, intimate accords that feel like a second skin (Estée Lauder Bronze Goddess, Kenzo Flower, Rochas Byzance, Giorgio Armani Sensi, among others.) In Essence, his sophisticated, yet seductive touch is obvious. The initial champagne sparkle of aldehydes gives Essence an elegant quality, which is a welcome counterpoint to the bubbly rose accord that forms its core. While the floral notes have an opaque, powdery quality and the velvety musks are used lavishly, the fragrance nevertheless feels effervescent and radiant. Supported by the delicate notes of amber and vanilla, the musky roses gain a seductive warmth in the drydown.
I find Essence to be an interesting floral musk idea, even if overall it feels somewhat too tame. Compared to the original Narciso Rodriguez, its character is less distinctive and memorable. Nevertheless, I enjoy wearing it for the impression of a rose petal shower that Essence conveys to me—pretty, vivacious, with a pleasant hint of decadence. Essence has enough sophistication to function as a day-to-evening fragrance, while it is understated enough to be comforting and relaxing. Like its cousins Love, Chloé and Tom Ford Musk Pure, Essence can be both a little black dress and a sexy lingerie perfume.
Narciso Rodriguez Essence Collection
Narciso Rodriguez is a great brand, but their unimaginatively named and similarly packaged fragrances make discovering the line hard. For instance, since 2009, Narciso Rodriguez Essence has acquired three flankers. Essence EDP Intense (2010) is similar to the original Essence, with the richer rose and iris accord resting on a plush musky base. Essence Iridescent (2010) attenuates the amber and oriental balsams of the base to make the floral accord more airy and luminous. The newest addition to the collection, Essence Eau de Musc (2011) is a citrusy interpretation of the musky roses of the original Essence. The effervescent orange-tangerine accord serves as an embellishment to the creamy, soft musk. Amber and iris woven through the velvety structure of Essence Eau de Musc add a lovely counterpoint, while the rose is toned down to a mere hint of honeyed petals. As pretty as these flankers are, I still remain partial to the original for its elegant aura.
Narciso Rodriguez Essence includes notes of iris, rose, amber, musks and benzoin. It is available from Bergdorf Goodman, Barneys, Neiman Marcus, Sephora and other department stores.
Sample: my own acquisition
Nice to see Essence getting some love. I for one think it's a very important perfume.
To me it's a pretty brave fragrance first (fruity-florals being the easy way) and with so much musk, Essence requires time, but mostly patience, to reveal it's true magic. Definitely not the easy way nowadays.
Also it's intimate quality, it's very subtle, pure, and calm rendition of roses is not incompatible with memorable creation and strong character. Essence is pretty unique to my little nose.
Essence influences the industry, see Idylle by Guerlain, L'Eau Serge Lutens, Cartier de Lune etc... again very subtly, but with *amazing* dexterity.
Posted by: Le critique de parfum | April 14, 2011 at 07:39
I agree, it does have a wonderful intimate quality. Definitely enjoyable to wear.
Posted by: Victoria | April 14, 2011 at 12:02
I also enjoy this scent and the body creme is delightful - a nice way to wear the scent at times when sillage might not be welcome.
Posted by: maggiecat | April 14, 2011 at 13:23
I haven't tried body cream in Essence, but I used to use the one scented with the original NR. You are right, an excellent product for days when one wants an understated sillage.
Posted by: Victoria | April 14, 2011 at 13:42
How I wish I got the rose petals! I tried this the other day, and it was mild-clean-musk all the way for me--too bad, because the bottle is really great.
On the other hand, I also (finally) tried Love, Chloé, and that one is truly fabulous, and worth owning. I fully concur with your assessment of it being "a perfect silk slip" of a fragrance. I see a mini in my future :)
Posted by: dee | April 14, 2011 at 13:43
Did you try Essence or Essence Eau de Musc? I keep confusing the bottles, which look identical. Eau de Musc was not rosey on me either.
At any rate, the musk is not at all understated here! I can totally see that.
I am so glad that you liked Love, Chloe! I've been enjoying it very much lately.
Posted by: Victoria | April 14, 2011 at 13:46
i bought this when it first came out - and found it to be a very happy scent. it is great for walking around in the country to see bluebonnets and, as you say, can move into the evening hours quite nicely. there is something sunshiny and linens-dried-on-the-line about it (and i do not like "clean" scents as a rule). i find it less serious than the musk for her edp/edt (they seem more serious about seducing). not sure i need any flankers, though... and am kinda surprise there are three!
Posted by: minette | April 14, 2011 at 15:20
Afraid I get insane levels of soap with this - it is a total no-no for me - haven't even got beyond the impregnated ribbon... : - )
Posted by: vanessa | April 14, 2011 at 21:01
Musks do give a soapy impression, you are right. I have been searching for a specific soap scent recently, and I finally figured out that it was a combination of different musks and floral notes!
Posted by: Victoria | April 14, 2011 at 21:13
I was surprised too. At first, I mixed Eau de Musc with the original. Then I confused another flanker with Eau de Musc. I finally had to compare bottles side by side.
Posted by: Victoria | April 14, 2011 at 21:16
Aha! Good question V, now that you mention it, I'm not sure: I saw the bottle and thought I knew what it was, so I didn't check. It probably wasn't what I thought it was!
And now I'm trying to decide between Love, Chloe and Egoiste at the top of my wishlist...
Posted by: Dee | April 15, 2011 at 12:20
Well, Egoiste is the one you can share with your husband! Yet, Love, Chloe is like a piece of sexy silk camisole, definitely an elegant, but not overly demanding scent.
Posted by: Victoria | April 15, 2011 at 12:24
Why did Narciso Rodriguez discontinue the original Musc Oil for Her? I get compliments EVERY time I wear it. Is there anything even close to it by another designer?
Posted by: p.lundberg@ymail.com | November 28, 2011 at 17:31
I, too, am sorely disappointed the oil has been discontinued. I have one bottle left. Always gets me compliments. It's very sad indeed.
Posted by: Tina | February 15, 2012 at 23:37