Star rating: 5 stars--outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars--very good, 3 stars--adequate, 2 stars--disappointing, 1 star--poor.
When I first smelled Insolence Eau de Toilette, I found it curious--a brash strawberry foiling a sophisticated orange blossom and iris accord. I was torn between hating the nail polish remover sharpness of the fruity top and enjoying the Guerlinade inflected drydown, between finding the fragrance vulgar and strangely appealing simultaneously. Recently, I discovered the Eau de Parfum version, which struck me as so dramatic and memorable that I feel that it deserves a review of its own. It fills in all of the spaces that the EDT left bare and adds more. Admittedly, it is not a refined composition à la Chamade or Après l'Ondée, but it packs so much character that it blows most of other recent launches out of the water.
While the EDP opens up on a similar hot raspberry and strawberry accord as the EDT, it is softer and warmer, lacking the pungent quality that I found in the EDT. The suave and rich accord of iris and violet forms the core of the composition, with the dark accent of orange blossom notes lending a surprising twist. The perfume, Maurice Roucel, envisioned Insolence as a modern interpretation of Après l'Ondée, but the EDP bears more relation to L’Heure Bleue, especially in its lavish use of floral notes. The warmth of tonka bean and sandalwood deepens the unctuous richness of florals, with the deliciously dark vanilla gilding the drydown. The heightened hue of all the elements gives Insolence EDP a fantastic character—abstract gourmand, seductive oriental and heady floral.
In a way, the ostentatious quality of Insolence is not too much out of character for Guerlain. Today, Shalimar, Mitsouko and L’Heure Bleue seem like paragons of restraint and elegance, yet in their day, they were seen as opulent and seductive above all else. Laden with all of those sensual animalic notes as they were, Guerlain classics skirted just on the edge of being unacceptably provocative. Insolence relies on the combination of powerful red fruit and violet notes, and while its aura may be different, the ostentatious effect is fully in place.
I am not a big fan of such fruity notes, and yet it is a testament to Roucel’s genius that he retains a balance between all of the elements without one dominating the other. I keep returning to Insolence to enjoy its brightness, its plush sweetness and its sensual warmth. It is an extremely tenacious fragrance with a huge sillage (note: it is not a fragrance to wear to a restaurant nor a theater performance!) For all of the marketing talk of Insolence appealing to the younger generation of Guerlain consumers, I do not find it particularly puerile and girly. Wearing it, I feel not so much like an ingénue trying to impress, but like a woman who appreciates an occasional indulgence.
Insolence Eau de Parfum includes notes of violet, raspberry, red fruit pulp, rose, orange blossom, iris, violet, tonka bean, musk and sandalwood. Insolence is available from Neiman Marcus, Bergdoft Goodman, Nordstrom, Saks Fifth Avenue and other major retailers. Also available as the Eau de Toilette and the parfum.
Sample: my own acquisition
Hi V! You're brave to try this one! One spray and I want to run to the hills. As you say, it's amazingly tenacious with HUGE sillage. Guessing it would be better dabbed than sprayed. I purchased this unsniffed based on LT's review in PtG - a large 3.4oz bottle. Yikes! Don't think I'll get through it in my lifetime! It's definitely a nice scent, though...if you can manage to tame the amount used.
Posted by: karin | May 25, 2011 at 08:27
I disliked the EdT for the reason you mentioned (brash fruit) and also the perception of a hot rubbery note below. Have never seen the EdP version but this write-up makes me want to try it. I must have missed this on my last trip to Orlando.
The EdT was off-putting but I did see resemblance to earlier house classics. It just wasn't in an especially flattering way. It will be interesting to see how the acetone/rubber thing (a new twist on the old classics and not a good one) is handled in the EdP.
Posted by: Suzanna | May 25, 2011 at 08:53
This is a memorable fragrance, isn't it, V? I love it. And, the violet gizmo-like bottle is one of my favorite perfume bottles.
Hugs!
Posted by: violetnoir | May 25, 2011 at 10:32
hmmm... will have to find the edp. i actually like insolence edt, and get lots of compliments on it when i wear it! i think it's a bit of a hidden gem, actually.
Posted by: minette | May 25, 2011 at 16:31
Oh gah, Roucel IS a genius...after pondering on L & T's 'disastrous top notes of hairspray and noise', I decided that it was absolutely deliberate....what could be more evocative of the big nite out to those of Roucel's (and my) generation than the makeup, hairspray, and loud records playing of insolent teenagers getting ready to prowl!
Posted by: Marion | May 25, 2011 at 18:28
I think I first got onto this fragrance through an article in Allure magazine in a list of sexy fragrances. I tried it and have loved it since. I wish more fragrances had such great sillage.
I wanted to ask you about a new fragrance you mentioned in March or so: Clinque Aromatic Elixer Perfumers Reserve. I keep looking for it and have yet to find it. Do you know when it is supposed to come out?
Also, I have been trying to find Diva Rose and, again, can't find it anywhere. Have you heard anything about it? So many of the recent limited edition fragrances with rose or just floral have been a big disappointment. It may not be a great fragrance, but I'd love to smell it.
Posted by: Mimi Walker | May 25, 2011 at 21:09
I love it , I am a violet fan though.I don't get the sillage maybe my skin sucks it all in !
Posted by: Angela Cox | May 26, 2011 at 11:22
Karin, a tiny spray is all I need. Too much, and it becoming suffocating, to say the least. Yet, in the sea of limpid and tame fragrance, it really feels so refreshing (not in a literal sense, of course!)
Posted by: Victoria | May 26, 2011 at 17:42
Suzanna, do try the EDP. I also hated the brash, cheap strawberry in the EDT, but the EDP is differently balanced and the effect is not identical.
I must say that I receive a ton of compliments on the EDP. Of course, it is a common thing with big sillage fragrances, but a lot of times people actually want to know where they can buy it.
Posted by: Victoria | May 26, 2011 at 17:44
I also grew to love the violet bottle, which in this darker shade is quite whimsical (in pink, it looks a bit cheap though.)
Posted by: Victoria | May 26, 2011 at 17:44
Oh, in this case, you simply MUST try the EDP. I bet, you will enjoy it even more than the EDT.
Posted by: Victoria | May 26, 2011 at 17:45
I love Roucel's bold, dramatic touches, which as I mentioned to Karin is something one does not see too often today. Compare this to Idylle, which is pretty, but rather lacking in personality...
Posted by: Victoria | May 26, 2011 at 17:45
I agree! Roucel has no fear! His fragrances are monumental. Compare his style to the "fresh, clean" scents (like Idylle) that abound right now - gimme Insolence EDP any day! BTW, have you tried his Roberto Cavalli Oro, V? Another powerhouse! It's a fruit liqueur bomb! I grabbed a bottle at TJ Maxx, not knowing anything about it. The bottle's a riot - crazy design. And the fragrance is POWERFUL. Not sure if there's osmanthus in it or not, but there's a definite dried apricot...and booze vibe.
Posted by: karin | May 26, 2011 at 17:56
So well put, Karin! :)
I have not tried Roberto Cavalli Oro, but your description is making me want to rush to the nearest TJ Maxx and look for a bottle.
Posted by: Victoria | May 26, 2011 at 18:14
Hmm, try asking someone else close to you if they can smell it. Sometimes I do not smell some fragrances myself, but it is definitely very obvious to others.
Posted by: Victoria | May 26, 2011 at 18:17
I checked with Clinique, and it seems that the launch of Aromatics Elixir Perfumer's Reserve is pushed back till the fall. So, it is not going to be available till then. I will update the information as soon as I know.
As for Diva Rose, I believe that Bloomingdale's might have it. I have not smelled it myself yet.
Posted by: Victoria | May 26, 2011 at 19:03
I have PLENTY if you want some. Email me at krnszn at gmail dot com. :-)
Posted by: karin | May 26, 2011 at 21:30
Thank you for your kind offer, Karin!
Posted by: Victoria | May 27, 2011 at 10:57
Thanking you so much for checking on the Clinique. Regards the Diva Rose, if you haven't smelled it, I don't think that bodes well for the scent.
After describing finding Insolence on a list of sexy perfumes, I am driving myself crazy trying to remember the others. Chinatown was on it, but the others don't come back. Oh well.
Posted by: Mimi | May 27, 2011 at 19:29
I will check again at Nordstroms and Bloomingdales for Diva Rose and let you know if I find it. I am curious about it, because I love the original Diva.
Posted by: Victoria | May 28, 2011 at 13:45
Hi there
Thanks so much for such a great informative website!I have white ,dry skin that doesnt stick to scents much! I tested Insolence today,it seems to last better for long time,do you think I should buy it?or...?
Posted by: Shermina | July 30, 2011 at 11:09