Recently as I was reading Self-Styled Siren’s fantastic post about Ten Movies Siren Should Love But Does Not, I got to thinking about fragrances that by all accounts should be among my favorites yet fail to move me. These are not the acrylic florals, the vulgar lollipops or the boring copycats. Most of the fragrances on my list are nicely done and distinctive enough to be memorable. For different reasons, they just do not appeal to me.
Serge Lutens Rahat Loukoum
I will not exaggerate if I say that Rahat Loukoum is my least favorite out of the entire collection. I would rather wear L’Eau than this blend of musk, heliotropine and vanilla. A high quality composition that smells like a cheap Duane Reade candle.
Jean Patou 1000
1000 is rich and opulent, but it is also heavy and opaque. As much as I love classical Guerlain and Chanel fragrances with all of their retro facets, 1000 strikes me as dated.
Grès Cabotine
Cabotine is a fragrance legend, and perhaps, this is the very reason I do not like it—I blame it for the current flood of squeaky clean florals that it engendered.
Perfumer Jean-Claude Ellena calls it the best gardenia composition, bright and joyful. I have tried it in the EDT and in the parfum, but I cannot get away from the blandness of its floral accord. If you are a fan, please let me know why you love it. I feel that I am missing something.
Givenchy Amarige
The fragrance equivalent of a weapon of mass destruction—it clears everything in its path. Remarkable composition from the technical standpoint, but to be around it is a suffocating experience.
I suspect that Chandler Burr’s excellent article on the creation of Jardin Sur le Nil is the reason why I tried to love it as much as I did. I wear it from time to time in hot weather, but recently I have come to realize that I just do not find it that compelling. A fresh citrus-floral composition with a soft woody backdrop. Pleasant, but nothing earth shattering.
Tom Ford Jasmine Musk
On paper, Jasmine Musk is the fragrance made for me, because I love the combination of indolic jasmine and musk notes. They create a fascinating synergy, alternating between the leather darkness of animalic notes present in white florals and the sweet softness of modern musks. However, Tom Ford’s Jasmine Musk is too bland and limpid to be exciting.
Thierry Mugler Alien
Another fragrance that contains all elements I should love: jasmine, orange blossom, woody musks and perfumer Dominique Ropion. On my skin, it is a disaster of decaying flowers and screechy amber.
Guerlain L’Instant de Guerlain
I much prefer the parfum concentration to all others, but if I have to pick a recent Guerlain launch to wear, I would rather go for Insolence. L’Instant feels as heavy as a crystal paper weight, with the richness of its vanilla and musk obscuring the finer nuances of magnolia flower and orange blossom.
Diptyque L’Ombre Dans L’Eau
L’Ombre Dans L’Eau is an interesting green composition, with a bold accent of verdant black currant buds and leafy notes. I like it enough to smell it in candle form, but as a personal fragrance, the green sharpness gets both monotonous and jarring as time goes on.
Photography by VeraKL
I can't wear Alien either. Up top it smells like grape soda.
Posted by: Elisa | August 26, 2011 at 09:44
I absolutely love the Guerlains. But I agree with you about L'Instant. It is SO heavy. And I do want to love it.
Posted by: pam | August 26, 2011 at 10:15
It has all of the things I like, but it just does not come together for me.
Posted by: Victoria | August 26, 2011 at 10:37
Another friend said that the top notes remind her of Welch's Grape Juice!
Posted by: Victoria | August 26, 2011 at 10:38
For me I agree with all except that the Rahat is nice on me. And I adore the Un jardin sur le nil. Amarige is just horrific on me. It was a fun idea to see what you think you SHOULD love! :)
Posted by: Ceil | August 26, 2011 at 10:41
I bought a bottle of Un Jardin sur le Nil but gave it away when I realized I never wore it. There was something sour in the top notes and the wood/incense base was too sheer, I wanted more.
I like Cabotine on fabric and I love l'Ombre dans l'Eau for that persistent green note, but I can see how it might get tiresome.
Posted by: kjanicki | August 26, 2011 at 10:42
:) Usually when I'm with someone who tries Alien, they like it until I mention grape soda, then they can smell it too.
Posted by: Elisa | August 26, 2011 at 10:52
I hear you on the Chanel gardenia. I recently bought a decant of the parfum, in a split. I just can't bring myself to love it. It smells like a single vacant petal, just lying there..I remember liking it at some point..not sure if the fragrance has changed, or my taste..
Posted by: Lavanya | August 26, 2011 at 11:18
For me it's, sadly, L'Heure Bleue. It's the one perfume I wanted to love above all others. I've tried it in vintage, in parfum, and in vintage parfum. But something about it just makes me ill. Plus, someone told me that I smelled like beer when I wore it! And no, I hadn't been drinking. At that point, I gave up. I like Shalimar and Mitsouko better, anyway.
Posted by: Elizabeth | August 26, 2011 at 11:31
Just like Elizabeth I can't wear L'Heure Bleue. I heard so many wonderful things about it but it just hates me. Also, Narciso Rodriguez. I just get nail polish remover. I thought for sure that it was for me from reading the description.
Posted by: dleep | August 26, 2011 at 12:39
Hahaha, almost all of them are my asolute fave! along with Tiffany, new Elie Saab , original Dolce & Gabbana , Eau de Gucci , Initial by Boucheron. @ Elisa - many of my clients say Alien smells like grape soda but I came to conclusion that it's just a collor of the bottle.
Posted by: Bella | August 26, 2011 at 13:21
As a vegan who now only wears 100% organic cosmetics and shampoos free of synthetics (Dr Hauschka, John Masters, etc). obviously I should love organic scents and perfumes but I don't. I found The Honore des Pres organic line ok, not bad but nothing amazing either although compared to other organic fragrances lines it's the first one that reaches a more elevated level in terms of concept and marketing.
Perfumistas more often than not admire and love Serge Lutens' oriental dark and complex fragrances, for the most part I don't (to the exception of Chypre Rouge, Iris Silver Mist and Encens et Lavande). I prefer his florals such as Bas de Soie, Un Lys and Vitriol d'Oeillet.
Posted by: Emma | August 26, 2011 at 13:45
Once, I read that Guerlain fragrances pick their wearer, not vice versa. Shalimar has decided not to pick me. In spite of my mother`s remarks, I tried to love it, but never did. As soon as it touches my wrist, it becomes intoxicating in the worst possible way. To my disgrace, Shalimar is forbidden for me.
Posted by: Rose D | August 26, 2011 at 14:54
I've got a few cult classics in this vein...No 5, Jicky, Bandit, Chamade, Cabochard, plus modern ones like L Air d d Maroccain, Escnetric Molecule ( the sweet smell of engine oil which I enjoy but don't call perfume!) Serge Noire (my only scrubber, I sometimes wonder if the sample was wonky)....I also don't *adore* No 19 for some reason; would rather Bas de Soie for a stinging smokey irisy hyacinth. Yet back in the day Caleche was one of the few of which I went through more than one bottle and I love Cristalle (and Diorella and Vent Vert having somehow missed them in my pre settling days before Mitsouko nearly 'ruined' perfume hunting for me)!
Posted by: Marion | August 26, 2011 at 17:55
Great topic! I love forward to "Perfumes I Shouldn't Love... But I do!" My list of strange dislikes: 1. Annick Goutal Sables 2. Le Labo Patchouli 24 3. L'Artisan Havana Vanille (or whatever it's now called) 4. Amouage Gold 5. Histoires de Parfums 1725/Casanova 6. Givenchy III 7. Comme des Garcons White 8. Ormonde Jayne Tolu 9. Parfumerie Generale Fellanilla 10. Aedes de Venustas
Posted by: Erin T | August 26, 2011 at 19:50
Sorry, of course that should be "look forward"...
Posted by: Erin T | August 26, 2011 at 19:51
Disregard what I said previously about Honore des Pres, I had to go to Henri Bendel, tried them all again and bought the tuberose Vamp a NY ;-))
Posted by: Emma | August 27, 2011 at 01:29
Dear Victoria,
It is a long time between comments for me but my love for your site has not not abated! A daily pleasure.
I've been giving L'Instant a second chance recently. I have a 5ml dab bottle of the EDP and that is actually perfect - a low dose is ideal because it is incredibly rich. I imagine and EDP spray would dispense just too much. A small application of the parfum is probably ideal. Luca Turin savaged it upon its release, but rediscovering it I'm actually pleasantly surprised and it is, for better or worse a very Guerlain scent. I agree though, Insolence is beautiful.
Posted by: Nick | August 27, 2011 at 03:47
For me, it's Chanel No 19. I expected to love it, but each time I test it from my sample, it's too papery or chalky for me. I'm disappointed that it doesn't work on me, but I have given up on it, at least for now.
Posted by: Ann C. | August 27, 2011 at 07:13
Of your list, V., I am aligning with Jardin Sur le Nil above all. Who is the person who did not expect to love it after that wonderfully crafted narrative about its development? And then it, like its predecessor, didn't work for me; none of the series smelled much like a jardin (which I imagine to smell mostly of jasmine and rose). I finally forced myself into Mediterrannee, only because of a fig bender.
Alien goes all ways wrong, even the parfum strength, after showing promise in the opening minute or two. A sonic boom of a fragrance, along with Amarige.
L'Ombre dans L'Eau I have come to love after years of mighty resistance for reasons you mention. Now, I love the tomato-leaf sharpness that smells of hot sun on the leaf, and a drydown that becomes warm and mildly spicy over time.
Posted by: Suzanna | August 27, 2011 at 09:00
Well, each to his or her own taste. I don't care much about the others, but 1000 has been my favorite perfume for several years. But it's become impossible to find in the parfum, at least in the States, so probably a lot of other people agree with you.
I don't know if you can explain what you mean by dated, but I find the use of that word intriguing. Trite?
At any rate, I love this blog, and the way it opens my sense of smell. Thank you!!
Posted by: Martha | August 27, 2011 at 10:21
(Sorry if repeat---don't think I sent properly.) Victoria, I feel like we've somehow been hovering over the same perfume contemplations. Alien and Amarige are equally nose-searing to me. Un Jardin sur le Nil was unmemorable literally as I was smelling it. l'Instant didn't meet the expectations the perfume itself set up and therefore was more disappointing than bad---possibly a worse scenario in commercial perfumery.
I've just written a negative review of Alien (then felt bad until Sherapop's entreaty on B'notes to write negative but not nasty reviews.) And just last PM I wrote but haven't posted reviews of l'Instant (completely agree with you) and Patou's 1000 (agree to disagree?!) that I'll try to but up on B'notes today.
Two to share: I just couldn't tolerate Aromatics Elixir. Couldn't find a bit of it that appealed to me. Went away from it for a long while (clearly I then changed because it didn't) and came back not just loving it, but recognizing it as one of the seminal perfumes of the 20th century. And here's the one that mentioning makes me look for the rocks about to be thrown at me. I don't like Bandit. I love green chypres and bitter leathers, but after the first few moments of Bandit, these two aspects cancel each other out to me and Bandit seems a vague woody scent.
Quick fan note, Victoria. I've been reading your daily reviews and comments and am so impressed by your critical skills combined with a far-ranging optimism. Look at today's topic. It'd be so easy to rant and run, but your combination of analysis and subjectivity make it the start of a conversation, not a shopping list of opinions. I'm hoping to learn more from your approach of well-considered commentary.
Posted by: jtd | August 27, 2011 at 10:38
It is there! ;)
Posted by: Victoria | August 27, 2011 at 13:41
It would be fun to do the reverse--the perfumes I should not love, but do! Sounds like it should be a sequel to this post.
Posted by: Victoria | August 27, 2011 at 13:42
I keep hanging on to my bottle of L'Ombre dans L'Eau in hopes that someday it will click with me. I love the idea of it.
Posted by: Victoria | August 27, 2011 at 13:43
It is pretty, but rather lacking in excitement. I still think that the best garden was Tom Ford Velvet Gardenia. It really smelled like fresh flowers.
Posted by: Victoria | August 27, 2011 at 13:43
Guerlain classics can be very difficult. I know several people on whom L'Heure Bleue smells like rotten fruit or even hops (so, yes, I can see where you might get beer.)
Posted by: Victoria | August 27, 2011 at 13:45
NR is another tricky one. Some people are anosmic to the musks in it, and as a result, they only get the sharp floral notes.
Posted by: Victoria | August 27, 2011 at 13:45
I love the original Dolce & Gabbana! It is so rarely mentioned these days.
Posted by: Victoria | August 27, 2011 at 13:46
I like Sa Majeste de la Rose, which is a very good, vibrant rose. I know that it gets lower marks than some other Lutens, but it is very elegant.
Posted by: Victoria | August 27, 2011 at 13:47
Oh, this is so true! I know that Apres L'Ondee picked me, while Shalimar only tolerates me. :)
Posted by: Victoria | August 27, 2011 at 13:59
Aromatics Elixir is another fragrance I simply cannot handle. It is beautiful, but whenever I wear it, I feel suffocated. In general, the American chypre fragrances are a challenge for me, because they are quite dry and woody. I like my chypres softer and plusher like Mitsuoko or even Miss Dior (which is fairly austere.) On the other hand, Estee Lauder Private Collection and Azuree are among my top favorites.
Thank you very much for your feedback and a compliment. It makes me very glad to hear it!
Posted by: Victoria | August 27, 2011 at 14:02
No, definitely not trite! Dated as in referencing another time, to which I cannot relate. So, it is a very subjective definition. As I said in the intro, most of these fragrances are very good. Most I would consider to be 4 star fragrances (according to my ranking system.) It is just that I do not care for them. I have difficulty with most of Patou fragrances, including Joy. I admire it, but occasionally I find it difficult. However, some days, it is just gorgeous on my skin, and I cannot get enough. Strange, no?
Posted by: Victoria | August 27, 2011 at 14:05
That story is one of the best pieces on fragrance development. I so wish that CB could have written more of such pieces, but I think that the secrecy of the fragrance world means that very few brands would want to allow it.
Posted by: Victoria | August 27, 2011 at 14:07
I had an on and off relationship with No 19 until one day it just clicked. If there is something intriguing about it, you should at least keep a sample around to revisit time to time. It is a gorgeous fragrance, and it is worth courting.
Posted by: Victoria | August 27, 2011 at 14:08
Nick, thank you! I think that you are right, the proper dosage of L'Instant is essential for experiencing it correctly. I find it easier to wear the parfum, which is very plush and elegant. Plus, you can smell more of magnolia in it.
Posted by: Victoria | August 27, 2011 at 14:09
:) Sounds great! I really like this fragrance myself.
Posted by: Victoria | August 27, 2011 at 14:09
Aedes de Venustas is a fragrance I like, but do not love. I am not sure why, but it just does not do anything for me. A very pleasant smoky incense, whereas I would love something more unusual.
Posted by: Victoria | August 27, 2011 at 14:11
Jicky is my least favorite classical Guerlain, I have to admit. I am not a big fan of it even in the vintage formulation. Now, the modern one smells like a fabric softener, which is a complete disgrace.
Posted by: Victoria | August 27, 2011 at 14:12
L'Air de Rien doesn't work
Bandit is difficult, too
I like 19 and Aromatics Elixir but hardly wear them, though I seem to more and more get into 19 recently, its serious and odd but sexy at the same time
Posted by: Cybele | August 27, 2011 at 15:59
hm and Chinatown
Posted by: Cybele | August 27, 2011 at 16:09
My big challenge is Aromatics Elixir. Don't know how I missed it in the 70s. Reading the notes makes me salivate, but the first time I smelled it, all I got was musty grass baskets. I've been working on it, though, and last night when I sprayed it, I got fresh grass baskets!
Posted by: Julie | August 27, 2011 at 17:01
I love the notes and the idea of Youth Dew and Azuree but neither translate well onto my skin. I often pass a Lauder counter and retry yet my opinion hasn't changed.
Posted by: Brooke | August 27, 2011 at 22:24
I adore sur le nil - one woman's sour is another woman's refreshingly tart :) I love the citrus blast and the ribbon of cold incense that persists well into the drydown. A favourite in hot/humid weather.
Posted by: Lily | August 28, 2011 at 03:10
Serge Noire was a real scrubber for me too... Perhaps we both had wonky samples?? (think not)
Posted by: Lily | August 28, 2011 at 03:12
Agree with you on all of these, haha, except that the parfum of 1000 is very nice, and I don't detect the civet in that version!
I don't like Mitsouko or Shalimar, so feel I am lacking there, as those are a couple of behemoths.
Posted by: Vanessa | August 28, 2011 at 05:18
what a great topic, thanks Victoria! well, i don't like Chanel 19 anymore, gave away my apres l'ondee, aromatics elixier is just too much, angel makes me sick, amarige is deadly, cabotine is smelly, 1000 de patou really isn't fun, white linen by EL is boring....i used to love must de cartier and now it makes me sick to my stomach. as i get older, my skin seems to change or my nose?
Posted by: nikki | August 29, 2011 at 12:33
Amarige is a WMD as far as I am concerned, I hated it at first sniff and I still do - and I normally love tuberose perfumes. I don't think there is much of the real thing in that beast.
Iris Silver Mist baffled me - I was hoping it would finally be THE iris perfume I could love, but it's such an ice queen it won't allow itself to be loved. It is beautiful but only in a distant, alien way.
Posted by: Flora | August 29, 2011 at 16:21
Got to defend Chanel's Gardenia! For the most part, I am resoundingly indifferent to the entire Chanel line (I think I am the only person on earth who loathes Chanel Number 5!)but I find Gardenia charming: lighter than most gardenia fragrances, some of which can be gaggingly sweet or so heavy they are funereal, it has a softness and a spriteliness that I enjoy. I makes me feel chic and Parisienne and it is even wearable in warm weather which many gardenia scents are not.
Jardin sur le Nil would make a lovely body spray or eau de cologne- something light and inexpensive to splash on after a long hot summer day scent and format- but as an expensive, premium scent, it doesn't wuite make it. Not unpleasant, but it doesn't have enough gravitas to justify its price and its pedigree.
Posted by: Lynn Morgan | August 29, 2011 at 17:56
I tried so hard to love Lalique's Encre Noire! Especially after your best of 2006 article but this one did not like me at all which is odd because I love the smell of the earth after a rainfall. Mossy woods? Vetiver? Leather? Musk? Those are all things that I love, but for some reason, does not work on me :( Maybe someday, I will revisit it...
Posted by: natalie | August 30, 2011 at 01:41
I love L'Ombre Dans L’Eau - as a room spray. Perfect sprayed on pillow covers on a cool summer evenings.
Posted by: Rowanhill | August 30, 2011 at 08:35
I love it.... loud, demands attention but feminine and glam ...Original Dolce & Gabana and my personality...perfect fit.
Posted by: Bella | August 31, 2011 at 18:33
Oh, no, no! I beg you to reconsider 1000. Applied moderately, and detected at a bit of a distance, it's like something from another, perfect, world.
Posted by: sisty | September 06, 2011 at 21:16