Guerlain Shalimar Parfum Initial : Fragrance Review

Star rating: 5 stars--outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars--very good, 3 stars--adequate, 2 stars--disappointing, 1 star--poor.

I confess that I did not expect much from Shalimar Parfum Initial, especially when I read that it is supposed to be a modern fruity version of a jewel in Guerlain’s crown, Shalimar. Picking up a blue faceted bottle to spray the perfume on my wrist, I braced myself for a pink berry compote, the likes of which test remarkably well, and as a result, suffocate the fragrance market. What I experienced instead came as a surprise—a lighthearted, yet elegant blend, in which the velvety oriental notes of Shalimar are embroidered with the effervescence of sweet orange and tangerine.

While Shalimar Parfum Initial does not have the magnificence of the classical Guerlain fragrances, it is very well-made for a modern oriental that aims for broad appeal. If that sounds like a backhanded compliment, I do not mean it that way. In fact, I admire perfumers’ attempts to revisit commercial themes and reinterpret them in new ways. Shalimar Parfum Initial smells au courant, but it does not have anything trite about it. It has a bubbly, vivacious character, however it is not yet another candy bar and lollipop banality that seems to be a common theme for women’s fragrances today.

The fragrance opens up on a bright accord of fruity notes, with strong accents of citrus and raspberries. The pleasant warm sensation unfolds almost right away, with the soft iris and sandalwood notes lending the perfume a sophisticated twist. While the original Shalimar was based on an accord of bergamot and vanilla, Shalimar Parfum Initial makes the citrus sweeter and softer. The green leafy accent replaces the peppery bite of the original, while the sheer rose is all that remains of Shalimar’s opulent floral heart.

As the composition dries down, the strong patchouli accents become more apparent, linking Shalimar Parfum Initial to the gourmand genre of Thierry Mugler Angel and Chanel Coco Mademoiselle. It nevertheless has some elements that set it apart from other fruity patchouli scents. I like the cool layer of vetiver that dispels the heft of the gourmand accord. The suggestion of crisp green notes is likewise an interesting embellishment. It is a charming scent, and I would not hesitate to recommend it to those who like gourmand oriental fragrances. Still, as much as I like Shalimar Parfum Initial, I cannot help wishing for Guerlain to resume working on classics, rather than doing twists on the existing collection. Hope springs eternal!

Guerlain Shalimar Parfum Initial includes notes of bergamot, orange, jasmine, rose, patchouli, musk, tonka bean and vanilla. It is available from Sephora, Macy’s, Bloomingdales, Bergdorf Goodman and other department stores. $67 (1.3oz), $84 (2oz) of Eau de Parfum.

Sample: my own acquisition

Comments

[Elizabeth]

I guess this perfume just didn't agree with me. All I got was a light, powdery iris, like somebody split Apres l'Ondee in half, then bottled the iris half. Ode a la Vanille is my favorite Shalimar flanker.

[Victoria]

I also prefer Ode a la Vanille by far, but this one is quite well-done too. Much better than Idylle or Ma Petite Robe Noire.
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[sweetlife]

I am completely and utterly behind in trying new things. Haven't smelled this or Ode a la Vanille. Pleased to hear that Guerlain is keeping up its good name, though!

[Elisa]

I only sniffed this quickly on paper, but I too got mostly iris, which surprised me (because iris doesn't smell pink!)

[Victoria]

Ode a la Vanille is even better--a warm, velvety version of Shalimar. I miss the animalic notes, of course, but its layers of warm, luscious vanilla are so alluring.

[Marla]

I have to admit, this smelled like plastic synthetic fruit layered over a pale ghost of the real Shalimar to me. I live in the tropics, maybe the tester got cooked en route??
-Marla

[Victoria]

Perhaps, that's just what it smells like to you. Money saved, I say! :)
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[dee]

I get mostly iris from this new Shalimar too, at least until the creaminess kicks in: I love it! What a surprise it was to see some of the Shalimar heritage retained---I didn't have high hopes for this one, but I'm pleased to have been surprised.

I have yet to meet a Shalimar I don't love :)

[Ann C.]

I'm happy to hear that you like it! I, too, love Ode a la Vanille, but I ordered a bottle of Initial and like it a lot. I got my bottle during one of our rare heat waves so I haven't worn it yet, but I think it will be a nice addition to my fall/winter fragrance wardrobe.

[Nina]

I loved it upon first spay (and as a longtime Shalimar user in any concentration) i was literally afraid of my beloved being spoiled - honestly: i LOVE it, i really adore this concentration and connot wait until my bottle arrives.
I also detect a strong (or better say: spicy) patchouli note and this is one of the facets i really adore in it, as well as a lesser amount of civet (which can be suffocation in the Shalimar (classic) EdP, for example).

[Suzanna]

I haven't been able to tolerate Shalimar for years because of the loss of the stronger elements (bergamot, leather) in favor of too much powder. This take sounds interesting and I'm glad you reviewed it. It just about has me curious about Shalimar again, while continuing to bemoan the changes to the original.

[dleep]

I tried this and like it very much.

[perfume connection]

I like Shalimar Parfum Initial. I have been using this perfume scent since June. :)

[Mia Bella]

Just a fabulous scent and very invigerating to the perfect evening out.

[Victoria]

I was so pleased with it. I really expected something dull and uninteresting.

[Victoria]

I also think that it would be a better fall/winter scent, but even so, I have been wearing it in the evenings. I love Ode a la Vanille too.

[Victoria]

You are right, patchouli replaces the animalic notes in this Shalimar. I actually love the civet and castoreum in old Shalimar, but since patchouli is one of my favorites notes, I do not miss the animalic accents that much in Initial.

[Victoria]

It is not an improvement on the original Shalimar, of course. Just a different version. I also wish that the original was retained in all of its glory...

[Victoria]

Glad to hear that I am not the only one! :)

[Victoria]

June and July were very hot here, so I have been waiting to wear it when the temperature dropped a bit.

[Victoria]

I agree!

[Suzanna]

I tried this yesterday and ended up preferring it to what passes for Shalimar nowadays. For anyone with a Nordstrom nearby (mine was 155 miles away in Tampa, sigh), they had a display with a fishbowl full of sample atomizers and they were happy to make up a sample in exchange for your listening to the sales pitch.