Star rating: 5 stars--outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars--very good, 3 stars--adequate, 2 stars--disappointing, 1 star--poor.
Some fragrances need to be well-tested over time to become classics. Guerlain Nahéma was an utter failure when first launched in 1979, but today its ripe, voluptuous accord of ylang-ylang, rose and sandalwood is considered archetypal. Serge Lutens Ambre Sultan, on the other hand, has achieved the status of an amber gold standard in a mere decade. Created as an interpretation of a classical sweet amber theme, today it is among the most imitated and recognizable amber fragrances. The genius of Serge Lutens and perfumer Christopher Sheldrake lied in layering a sweet, unctuous amber accord with the camphorous brightness of herbs. The result is a fascinating sweet-savory interplay that evokes as much caramel ganache as tomates à la provençale (tomatoes grilled with parsley and oregano.)
On the face of it, Ambre Sultan seems like a variation on the traditional labdanum and vanilla accord that can be found in many classical fragrances. It certainly has plenty of warm resins accented with dry patchouli and woods as well as a deliciously dark vanilla. Yet, although some elements seem familiar, there are some facets of Ambre Sultan that are surprising. The bright, aromatic flourish of marjoram, thyme and coriander has a piquant character, and when set against the dark, heavy resins, the effect is not unlike a sprinkling of salt over a piece of chocolate. The herbs lighten the opulent heft of amber, while green, vegetal musks soften some of the rough edges.
In contrast to the grand parfums like Guerlain Mitsouko, in which a classical sweet amber accord plays an important role next to the mossy woods and cinnamon sprinkled peaches, Ambre Sultan is a solo performance. It is not a composition where the top notes have a distinct character from the drydown. Instead, Ambre Sultan unfolds all of its gilded, ambery layers at once, allowing one to admire their warmth and richness.
Built in the modern style, it is a radiant composition that combines a great tenacity with a powerful sillage. Wearing Ambre Sultan, I feel as if I am wrapped in a heavy pashmina, which is a pleasant sensation on a cold day. It gathers plenty of compliments, often from complete strangers. Even so, be forewarned that proper dosage makes the difference between a caress and asphyxiation. One spray too many, and the beauty of Ambre Sultan becomes smothering.
Serge Lutens Ambre Sultan Eau de Parfum includes notes of coriander, amber, oregano, bay leaf, myrtle, angelica root, sandalwood, patchouli, benzoin, and vanilla. It is sold in the export range. The export line fragrances are available from Aedes, Beautyhabit, Luckyscent, Barneys, Bergdorf Goodman, and from some Neiman Marcus locations. $120, 50ml.
Sample: my own acquisition
The most wonderful amber! I'm glad to see you gave it five stars. It really is THE amber.
Posted by: Olfactoria | October 03, 2011 at 04:18
I am going to try this - fall is here!
Posted by: Tracy | October 03, 2011 at 08:36
Delicious review! I will wear it today.
This is the only fragrance with that many herbal notes I can wear. Normally I do not care for herbs at all, but here they slightly roughen the surface of the amber/vanilla in a marvelous way.
Posted by: Suzanna | October 03, 2011 at 09:01
My favorite amber (and I have quite a few) and one of my top 3 fragrances of all time. Perfection.
Posted by: Style Spy | October 03, 2011 at 09:39
I just bought a full bottle after draining my decant. AB just makes me happy when I wear it. I love that I can smell it all day. Thanks for the review.
Posted by: AnneR | October 03, 2011 at 09:43
Thank you for that wonderful review! This was my first Serge.
Posted by: dleep | October 03, 2011 at 11:59
I loved this review.
I have to admit that I still do not spray AS, wearing only tiny dabs of it. I know a lot of people do spray it, but I have not just come around yet.
Posted by: Warum | October 03, 2011 at 12:16
i like to wear this on one wrist and hermes' ambre narguile on the other. i can sniff each wrist in succession to compare and contrast, and then sniff them both together. ooh. i need to stop now and get out my treasure chest.
Posted by: green jean | October 03, 2011 at 12:28
One of the best, that's for sure!
Posted by: Victoria | October 03, 2011 at 12:45
It is my favorite for this time of the year.
Posted by: Victoria | October 03, 2011 at 12:45
I like herbal notes in general, but here they lend such an interesting effect. Mmmmm....
Posted by: Victoria | October 03, 2011 at 12:46
I also love ambers, but this one never fails to please!
Posted by: Victoria | October 03, 2011 at 12:46
I agree, a drop is enough to last for the entire day. It is really tenacious!
Posted by: Victoria | October 03, 2011 at 12:49
I think that it was my second Serge! :) The first one was Fleur d'Oranger, which is still my favorite.
Posted by: Victoria | October 03, 2011 at 12:49
This is the kind of fragrance that needs to be dabbed. Like you, I cannot envision spraying it. :)
Posted by: Victoria | October 03, 2011 at 12:52
Sounds wonderful! :)
Posted by: Victoria | October 03, 2011 at 12:52
One of the only fragrances that brought me to tears when I first smelled it - no lie. It will always be what I think of, when I think of amber.
Posted by: Mikeperez23 | October 03, 2011 at 23:09
I love ambers and this is on the top of my list alongside of Ambra del nepal. Ambre narguile is one I must try. I agree with Olfactoria, I am so pleased you gave it 5*.
Posted by: Sharryn Stormonth | October 04, 2011 at 01:52
Thank you for sharing that! Any perfume that can evoke such a strong feeling is very special.
Posted by: Victoria | October 04, 2011 at 12:19
Do try Ambre Narguile! I love the strong tobacco note interspersed with amber in that fragrance, and yet the whole is so light and airy.
Posted by: Victoria | October 04, 2011 at 12:20
i didn't fall for its charms for several years... but once i did, i did because, on me, it's more about the incense than the amber - i feel like i'm burning high-quality incense on my skin when i wear it. if it were simply a sticky-sweet amber, i wouldn't enjoy it nearly as much!
Posted by: minette | October 04, 2011 at 16:16
I need to go and put this on now! Thank you so much for the previous post on ambers and for this and the one on ambre russe...I have learned a lot!
Posted by: hongkongmom | October 06, 2011 at 02:36