Star rating: 5 stars--outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars--very good, 3 stars--adequate, 2 stars--disappointing, 1 star--poor.
A lily that flirts with vanilla, Cartier Baiser Volé took me by surprise. After experiencing the pretty, but overly timid Cartier de Lune, I expected that Baiser Volé would fit its name, which means “stolen kiss” in French, by possessing a delicate and fleeting character. I was right about delicate, but fleeting and limpid it is not. For all of its soft and caressing presence, it has a distinctive and vivid character. While its start is sparkling and bright, Baiser Volé becomes warmer and richer as it develops, turning from a gauzy veil to a comforting cashmere wrap.
The first few minutes of Baiser Volé lead one to expect a crisp floral à la Christian Dior J’Adore or Estée Lauder Pleasures, given the crunchy green notes that introduce the main accord. As soon as the floral layers unfold, the neon radiance is left behind and Baiser Volé becomes lush and velvety. The lily is the main impression, but as I wear Baiser Volé, I find that it oscillates between a rose and a gardenia, with the illusion of lily occurring along the way. This kaleidoscopic effect is miles away from the nondescript acrylic florals one finds in most fragrances today. The play on sensations is as much an interesting part of experiencing Baiser Volé as its refined character.
I like all of the parts of the journey on which Baiser Volé takes me, but the vanilla accented drydown is especially appealing. It has the comforting “silk slip” quality of fragrances like Love, Chloé or Guerlain Cruel Gardénia. The floral petals have melted by now, leaving on your skin the warmth of musk, honey and candied almond. The sweetness is tempered by the green notes, and the character of Baiser Volé at this stage is elegant and suave, rather than gourmand or heavy. Compared to most lily compositions, it is perhaps closer to the abstract flowers of Hermès Vanille Galante than to the sumptuous richness of Serge Lutens Un Lys or Donna Karan Gold. Either way, it is another great discovery for floral lovers who want something different in their bouquets.
Cartier Baiser Volé includes watery notes, green leafy notes, floral accord, lily, vanilla, and powdery notes. It is now available from Cartier boutiques, Neiman Marcus, Bergdorf Goodman, and Saks5thAvenue. 1.6oz, $100; 3.3oz, $145.
Sample: Cartier PR
Interesting review! For some reason, I had written this off, but it's also popped up on several of the "best of 2011" polls on Makeupalley. I might have to give this a sniff!
Posted by: Ann C. | November 28, 2011 at 06:42
I love it! Especially the pure parfum is gorgeous! You have to try that one too ;-)
Posted by: Isabeau | November 28, 2011 at 09:02
Raluca
I love, love the way this fragrance smells in the beginning but after that it turns powdery on me. Very powdery! Must be my skin. I'll put it on again as I have a sample from sephora.On an unrelated note, last night I bought the last bottle of Tubereuse Criminelle from Barneys. :)
Posted by: Raluca | November 28, 2011 at 09:27
It is powdery, which is what gives it that cashmere soft quality in the drydown, but not overly so on me. I usually like powdery notes, so maybe I am not as sensitive to this effect.
Congrats on your acquisition! :)
Posted by: Victoria | November 28, 2011 at 09:32
Mmmmm, I can only imagine. How is it different from the EdP?
Posted by: Victoria | November 28, 2011 at 09:33
I was not excited about it initially, because I was not a fan of Cartier de Lune, and it sounded somehow very similar. It turned out to be lovely, and I even ended up repurchasing a bottle myself, since I gave away my sample here, on BdJ.
Posted by: Victoria | November 28, 2011 at 09:35
I found the drydown on this one pretty meh (laundry musk on me), but the opening accords are stunning! Smells just like a flower shop.
Posted by: Elisa | November 28, 2011 at 12:00
I really loved this enough to buy a bottle. I wore it during the warmer months and received a lot of compliments. I didn't think I would like it since I didn't care for Donna Karan Gold and I don't really like watery notes.
Posted by: dleep | November 28, 2011 at 12:41
Lovely fragrance. I found the heart quite similar to Tocade. I guess the rose-vanilla-white florals of tocade echo the vanilla-lily duo here. They also have their powderiness in common.
Posted by: Dl | November 28, 2011 at 12:48
For me Cartier Baiser Vole is a soft elegance. I particularly like the simplicity of the packaging with its "flip top" magnetized cap. When tested (on myself) the green notes were most prevalent which ultimately blended to a soft but not overpowdery floral.
Posted by: Nancy A | November 28, 2011 at 13:39
I guess I'm alone here; I really didn't like it. On the positive side it did confirm for me that I'm really not a "vanilla" person!
Posted by: tomate farcie | November 28, 2011 at 13:49
See, it was the opposite for me--I found the top fairly predictable and the drydown interesting.
Posted by: Victoria | November 28, 2011 at 15:25
The watery notes give it a nice counterpoint to all of those lush, powdery layers. The fragrance really took me by surprise.
Posted by: Victoria | November 28, 2011 at 15:27
Tocade is one of the best vanilla florals! Such a gorgeous, original composition.
Posted by: Victoria | November 28, 2011 at 15:28
The packaging is great. I loved the packaging for Cartier de Lune too, too bad that the fragrance did not live up to my expectations.
Posted by: Victoria | November 28, 2011 at 15:28
Sometimes such negative discoveries are very useful too! :)
Posted by: Victoria | November 28, 2011 at 15:29
Maybe I should test this again, because the first time I did, I must have gotten a bad sample. It smelled like chemicals on me!!
Hugs!
Posted by: violetnoir | November 28, 2011 at 16:07
It really is. Roucel is such a wonderful perfumer that the simple rose-vanilla idea becomes akin to a new flower , a smell so seemingly evident that one can hardly believe it hasn't always been there c
Posted by: Dl | November 28, 2011 at 17:52
I love this! I don't get a lot of vanilla, but I do get realistic lily, which is one of my favorite aromas, and the green opening smells great. A winner for me, and I did not expect to like it either, based on Cartier's recent track record with their non-exclusive department store line.
Posted by: Flora | November 29, 2011 at 02:26
I am not sure how to say it, but it is creamier on the skin and lasting power is superb!
Posted by: Isabeau | November 29, 2011 at 03:26
Maybe, you just did not care for it. I cannot image that modern perfume goes bad that easily!
Posted by: Victoria | November 29, 2011 at 09:51
Another very beautiful lily was Penhaligon's Lily & Spice, but unfortunately it was discontinued.
Posted by: Victoria | November 29, 2011 at 09:51
He is a master of making anything he touches very sensual. He loves women, and it shows through the perfumes he makes.
Posted by: Victoria | November 29, 2011 at 09:52
It sounds wonderful! I will be sure to look for it at stores.
Posted by: Victoria | November 29, 2011 at 09:52
Early June after a rain in the countryside of New England. You smell something from the the woods edge where the field ends in a stone wall and must find it and be near it. You come closer and a spiced note is added but you cannot quite find the bush that originates this perfume so you follow along the wall inhaling deeply. This is a complex and elegant perfume. The way it evolves is a surprise and special treat. My daughter and I explored its tester in Sephora and 4 other people were drawn in, including the sales lady. I am a career aldehyde wearer but this will be a new addition to my Spring wardrobe. A+++.
Posted by: Ariadne | February 25, 2012 at 20:21