Chanel Coromandel (Les Exclusifs) : Perfume Review

Star rating: 5 stars--outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars--very good, 3 stars--adequate, 2 stars--disappointing, 1 star--poor.

I've loved Chinese screens since I was eighteen years old. I nearly fainted with joy when, entering a Chinese shop, I saw a Coromandel for the first time. Screens were the first thing I bought,” said Coco Chanel in one of her interviews, as quoted by Claude Delay in “Chanel Solitaire,” 1983, p.12.) The dark lacquered wood of Coromandel screens with their unique luminescence was the main impression of those who visited her apartment at 31 rue Cambon in Paris. Their unique blend of opulence and austerity, of dark sheen and bright gold embellishments was the inspiration for the fragrance of the same name from Les Exclusifs collection: Chanel Coromandel.

Having decided to build the composition on patchouli, perfumer Christopher Sheldrake emphasizes Chanel’s fascination with the exotic—the Indian Coromandel Coast was the site of trade in Chinese goods and Indian wares, including patchouli. The camphorous woody character of this leafy plant is so complex that it lends itself to numerous variations. In Coromandel, it is taken into a dark, luscious direction, someplace between the fun fair exuberance of Thierry Mugler Angel and the dusky bitterness of Serge Lutens Borneo 1834. Like other Chanel fragrances, it is above all elegant and refined, with a beautiful and rich sillage.

The notes of green pine needles introduce the resinous darkness of patchouli. Its musty and earthy qualities are toned down considerably, while the sweet woody facets are played up in the base of Coromandel. Rose and jasmine appear as delicate brushstrokes, making the composition both lighter and more complex. The velvety oriental base has a similar baroque flair to that of Chanel Coco, but the emphasis is on woods and incense. Treated this way, patchouli appears as warm and spicy, hinting at its chocolate liqueur-like richness.

When I was testing Jean Paul Gaultier's new masculine fragrance Kokorico last week, I was immediately inspired to revisit Coromandel. The treatment of woods as simultaneously dry and gourmand  is very intriguing, and I would add, polarizing, because it does not fit within our expectations. Although marketed as a feminine fragrance, Coromandel would suit men who like oriental blends. If on the other hand, Coromandel is too bitter of a morsel for you, try Frédéric Malle Portrait of a Lady or Agent Provocateur where the emphasis is on floral notes at the expense of woods.

Chanel Coromandel features notes of jasmine, patchouli, woody notes, amber, benzoin, and frankincense. It is a part of Les Exclusifs collection that also includes Jersey, Beige, Sycomore, No 22, Gardénia, Cuir de Russie, Bois des Iles, 28 La Pausa, Bel Respiro, No. 18, and Eau de Cologne. It is available in the Eau de Toilette concentration from Chanel boutiques and Bergdorf Goodman. 2.5oz, $110; 6.8oz, $210.

Sample: my own acquisition

Image: red flower on Coromandel screen via wikipedia.com

Comments

[Strawberry Blonde]

This sounds quite exquisite. I hope I get a chance to try it.

Nic x

[rosarita]

This ranks high on my top 20 list. Thanks for the beautiful review.

[Victoria]

Mine too! It is such a great composition--a woody fragrance, with a gourmand twist.

I noticed though that it is a love or hate perfume.

[Victoria]

I hope so too. It is worthwhile to explore it.

[axum]

I admire Coromandel, but I can't honestly say I enjoy it... On the other hand I adore Sycomore! Lovely and informative review, as always - thank you.

[Victoria]

Sycomore is another elegant, distinctive woody fragrance. Despite the fact that there are so many vetiver blends out there, it still stands out.

[minette]

of all things, coromandel smells like shalimar on me! i love it, but it's such a strong reference to shalimar that i didn't feel the need for a huge bottle. but now that they have the "normal" size bottles, i might feel different about it!

a saleswoman at NM wears this when she goes dancing, and she says all the men go absolutely nuts over it, and her! she's a real texan - big hair, big accent, and very sweet. this suits her very well.

[Bulldoggirl]

I'm not a fan of most of the Exclusifs. They all seem either one note (iris, gardenia, vetiver), or overly aldyhedic to the point that they become like white noise for the nose. But Coromandel is a real stand out. I get so many different impressions from it: it's like standing downwind of a university-area head shop located next door to a bakery. In a pine forest.

[Dionne]

Mmmm, Coromandel. I've been wearing it a lot lately and almost used up my small decant, so it's numero uno on the Christmas list. It's definitely my favorite patchouli fragrance, as every time I've done a wrist-to-wrist comparison with another patch frag, its smoothness wins me over.

[Rowanhill]

I can appreciate Coromandel fornits elegance but prefer to smell it on others.
Portrait of a lady is more to my liking, not forgetting of course rue Cambon and
Bois des Iles now that the wheather is cooling towards winter.

[Victoria]

I see some Shalimar elements, but I do not find them that similar. I guess, it is the character that is most similar--that lush, sumptuous darkness.

[Victoria]

I have nearly all Exclusifs, either in decants or full bottles, but over time, I have been wearing La Pausa, 31 rue Cambon and Coromandel the most. Bel Respiro is something I hardly ever touch.

[Victoria]

You put your finger on the very quality that I love about it--smoothness. It still has some of the dark and earthy patchouli facets, but it is so smooth and elegant.

[Victoria]

I love Portrait of a Lady too. One of the best in its genre!

[Lynn Morgan]

Patchouli can be difficult. It's either exotic, sensual and alluring or smells like a fusty head shop. I trust Chanel; I'll give it a whiff the next time I cruise through the boutique. I usually whiff 'Gardenia' among the exlcusives; I like its soft airiness, but this sounds compelling for a cool fall afternoon.

[Victoria]

You should definitely smell it, Lynn!