Star rating: 5 stars--outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars--very good, 3 stars--adequate, 2 stars--disappointing, 1 star--poor.
Whenever I hear a reference to elegance in perfumery, I invariably think of Christian Dior Eau Sauvage, because few existing fragrances are as exquisitely refined as this composition by the great perfumer Edmond Roudnitska. Of course, elegance can be achieved in a number of different ways, but the effortless, streamlined sophistication of Eau Sauvage has an immediate appeal. In many ways, the beauty and the genius of this fragrance lie in its perfect balance: a balance between different elements of the composition, between simplicity and complexity, between artistic merit and pure pleasure. Eau Sauvage is one of those rare perfumes that have plenty to say, but that are easy to understand.
Each era had its own scent, and some fragrances weathered the time better than others. Whenever I smell Eau Sauvage, it is hard to believe that this fragrance will celebrate its 50th birthday in 2016. It possesses the airy, luminous quality that is prized and widely imitated today, and in fact, one of Roudnitska’s contributions to perfumery was the introduction of radiant effects. Considering that Eau Sauvage still remains an important trendsetter in masculine perfumery, it is not surprising to discover that many citrus-herbal blends, from Nina Ricci Signoricci 2 to Carolina Herrera 212 Men, pay tribute to it.
Classicism and Avant-Garde
The effervescence of Eau Sauvage is set by bergamot, lemon and basil, which form an exhilarating prelude. The classical cologne idea behind Eau Sauvage can be seen in an earlier Roudnitska creation, Christian Dior Eau Fraîche (1953,) where the orchestration of citrus, bright green herbs and violet tinged woods has a springtime freshness. Compare Eau Fraîche to Eau Sauvage, and suddenly something becomes very obvious—for all of its brightness Eau Sauvage has a subtle, but distinctive animalic undercurrent. And while you are comparing Eau Sauvage to Eau Fraîche, pull out a bottle of Diorella. A few years later in 1972, Roudnitska elaborated Eau Sauvage’s idea to make an even more sensual composition built around the same fresh, watery concept.
Eau Sauvage is often mentioned as the first fragrance pioneering the use of the lemony jasmine note of hedione. In fact, hedione is used in only trace amounts in Eau Sauvage, in contrast to most fragrances today that use it in much higher proportions. While hedione gives a novel airy quality to Eau Sauvage, it is not what makes this fragrance special. The most magical part is the perfect harmony between the disparate elements that result in an original and beautiful impression. Much like Monet’s wide strokes of green, purple and orange magically produce a vision of a bridge over a lily filled pond, the citrus, bitter herbs, and damp woods of Eau Sauvage evoke the crisp white shirt and warm skin of someone irresistibly attractive.
Eau Sauvage Today
The seductive timbre of moss and the indolic twist of jasmine that give Eau Sauvage its deliciously dark facet have been reduced in the current version, along with the clove like warmth in its heart. Today, it is closer to a classical citrus cologne, and the warm skin sensation that I loved about Eau Sauvage is not as obvious. Nevertheless, I still find Eau Sauvage an excellent fresh citrus fragrance, and although it is marketed to men, women should explore it, especially if they enjoy Jean-Claude Ellena’s colognes for Hermès.
Eau Sauvage also has two siblings, which occasionally show up on Ebay and various discounters at bargain prices. Eau Sauvage Extrême (1984) is a richer citrus blend, with dark amber notes lacing the drydown. Also, the floral twist is more honeyed as compared to the lemony jasmine brightness of the original. Eau Sauvage Fraîcheur Cuir (2007, now discontinued) was an interesting leather dominated interpretation of Eau Sauvage, with iris and warm spices lending it a velvety effect.
Christian Dior Eau Sauvage contains notes of lemon, petitgrain, rosemary, jasmine, lavender, basil, hedione, vetiver, andoakmoss. Available from most retailers and Christian Dior boutiques.
Image: Dior Eau Sauvage, Corto Maltese.
Sample: I've compared several versions of Eau Sauvage from the 1960s, 1970s and 1980s with the fragrance sold at Saks5thAvenue Dior counter today.
This review is a triumph in perfume writing, V.
Not only is ES a classic, so is the advertisement using the Corto Maltese sailor. The ad could easily have appeared in any decade since ES's creation and still be powerful. Contrast with the cheap shots across the sexual bow taken by Tom Ford and Marc Jacobs.
Posted by: Suzanna | November 08, 2011 at 08:55
Thank you, Suzanna! Writing about classics is intimidating sometimes--so many stories, so many details... And reformulations, of course!
I completely agree, this is one of my favorite ads.
Posted by: Victoria | November 08, 2011 at 11:51
Great review of a great perfume which I adore! Thanks!
Posted by: Marcin | November 08, 2011 at 12:27
You are welcome! It is truly one of the best. I like it in all versions.
Posted by: Victoria | November 08, 2011 at 14:00
Eau Sauvage is truly an absolute point of reference, isn't it? The original formula just awes me with its perfection. When I present it to my young, mostly American fashion students (who, unlike young French people, might not have smelled it on their elders a million times), they're absolutely conquered. Which goes to show you can take any Vera-Wang-Princess-loving young lady, present her with utter beauty, and she'll get it.
Posted by: carmencanada | November 08, 2011 at 14:05
In the perfumery school, Eau Sauvage was my favorite fragrance to duplicate. It is just amazing how it is put together.
Your story is great, and a perfect testament to the fact that despite whatever the marketing leads us to believe, people recognize quality products.
Posted by: Victoria | November 08, 2011 at 15:13
These young women walked out talking about Eau Sauvage, Cuir de Russie, Mitsouko, La Treizième Heure... In fact, when I get a group of fashion students for a mini-historic tour of the Palais-Royal area, ending with Serge Lutens, several end up buying. And I always hear at least once or twice: "I never knew perfume could be this." Not only does that make me feel my mission is accomplished, but convinces me that, as you say, it doesn't take much for people to recognize beautiful perfumes once they're exposed to them.
Posted by: carmencanada | November 08, 2011 at 17:01
Doesn't it feel so good? I always love introducing people to quality fragrances. Speaking of perfume boutiques, I loved your recommendation of Sens Unique. What a great store!
Posted by: Victoria | November 08, 2011 at 21:48
Thanks for this review and, especially, for the comparison to today's version. I hope that you will sometime soon undertake a similar review of Diorella as you have identified it as one of your top 5. One of mine too. I get some sense of your thoughts from your hedione article, but I wait for a full treatment.
Posted by: Lindaloo | November 09, 2011 at 02:06
I will do! It has been on my to-review list for a while. Diorella is such a remarkable fragrance. Fresh and bright, but with a seductive ripeness about it.
Posted by: Victoria | November 09, 2011 at 09:17
Wonderful review! Your beautiful writing made me go to the fridge and take out my eau sauvage, spray it on while cooking chanterelle with cream sauce...Now I have to look for Eau Sauvage Extreme! Thank you...
Posted by: Nikki | November 09, 2011 at 11:34
What a coincidence! I'm working from home today, and that's what I'm making for lunch. Will have them on toast. Mushrooms almost rival chocolate as my favorite food. :)
The other versions don't compare to the original Eau Sauvage, but they are very good.
Posted by: Victoria | November 09, 2011 at 11:38
I know, Victoria, mushrooms are absolutely divine...I can't get enough of them. I spent some time in Piemonte, Italy during the truffle season and ate lunch at Belvedere La Morra restaurant where huge white truffles were shared among the guests to grate over their pasta (it was a private celebration). I have never smelled anything like this before, it was heaven....Chanterelles are in season now, they are bigger than the ones we have in Europe and not as tasty but they will do...I do like the marinated mushrooms as well which I buy at the Ukrainian store here with brown bread. There is a mushroom/tubereuse perfume somewhere I read about it.
Posted by: Nikki | November 09, 2011 at 18:09
Cepes and Tuberose by Aftelier! It is dark, dense and earthy.
Chantrelles I got from Whole Foods are huge! Unfortunately, they don't have that lovely apricot flavor I love in tiny chantrelles. Still, it was a treat.
Posted by: Victoria | November 09, 2011 at 19:09
Thank you, will check out Cepes and Tuberose!
Posted by: Nikki | November 10, 2011 at 13:29