Scent and Chemistry : The Molecular World of Odors ~ Perfume Book Review

When I learned via the publisher Wiley-vch about a new book on fragrance science authored by the prominent chemists Günther Ohloff, Wilhelm Pickenhagen and Philip Kraft, I immediately placed a pre-order. Ohloff's articles have been my favorite perfume geek reading since I first started Bois de Jasmin and I already knew of Philip Kraft's work through his revealing Perfumer & Flavorist article on Chanel No 5, so I impatiently anticipated my book to arrive. For the past couple of weeks, I have been spending my free moments with Scent and Chemistry: The Molecular World of Odors, learning about aroma-materials and their role in some of the most renowned fragrances on the market.

Before I go further into my review, I have to warn that this book is aimed at chemists, perfumers and fragrance lovers with a strong taste for technical details. Well, the title gives it away, doesn't it? Imagine a carefully researched and documented academic work in a chemistry journal, and you have a good idea of what to expect from Scent and Chemistry. If you like pouring over the molecular structure of odorants, learning what kinds of ionones are used in Dior Poison and just how much linalyl acetate is contained in bitter orange oil, this book is for you. So please take it either as a warning or encouragement, depending on your interests!

Those who love chemistry, however, will find Scent and Chemistry to be a fascinating glimpse into the world of fragrance science. The book is based on the award winning work by Günther Ohloff, Riechstoffe und Geruchssinn. Die molekulare Welt der Düfte (Scent and Fragrances: The Fascination of Odors and Their Chemical Perspectives). One of the most renowned fragrance chemists, Ohloff (1924-2005) worked for Schimmel & Co, Dragoco and Firmenich, where he researched and perfected the synthesis of aroma-materials and odorants. His original work was not a big tome, but it contained so much information that it quickly established itself as a standard fragrance chemistry book.

Scent and Chemistry is driven by the same curiosity and painstaking attention to detail that characterized Ohloff’s original publication. It revises and extends the material, backing it up with over 400 perfumery examples. The eight chapters cover topics like the history of chemical discoveries, structure-odor relationships, natural raw materials and some of the most widely used synthetics. Additional information is provided to illustrate some of the most notable perfumery trends such as the use of sweet notes in mainstream perfumery and dark incense effects in niche. Every chapter is backed up by a bibliography containing hundreds of useful references. To me, this alone is worth the $78.99 price tag—yes, academic books are expensive!

I enjoy the range of examples used in Scent and Chemistry, where next to the bestsellers like Burberry Brit and Lancôme Trésor, one finds niche offerings like Comme des Garçons Incense Jaisalmer and Annick Goutal Ce Soir ou Jamais—the latter established a record by using 0.45% of rose redolent beta damascone. It is also interesting to learn about the chemical synthesis of odorants, which reveals why some man-made materials are as expensive as the naturals. All in all, it is a densely packed 418 pages, and it makes for a great reference volume. As such, it definitely has its own audience, but I hope that the authors might also consider writing more of a layman's book about raw materials. Given their unique perspective and a wealth of knowledge, it would be a great addition to a perfumery bookshelf.

NB: Corrigenda is available via Scent and Chemistry Facebook page.

Scent and Chemistry: The Molecular World of Odors by Günther Ohloff, Wilhelm Pickenhagen, Philip Kraft, 2011. ISBN-10: 3-906390-66-7; ISBN-13: 978-3-906390-66-6

Available from Amazon.com.

Comments

[Karl]

Sounds like a book for me! I studied chemistry as an undergrad but then ended up going to the law school. So thanks for an interesting review. I always learn something new from your blog.

[Elisa]

Adding this to my Amazon wish list. I *wish* it weren't $79!!

[Victoria]

Glad to hear it! If you have a chemistry background, this book will be a breeze for you.

[Victoria]

I originally pre-ordered it from the publisher, but I ended up cancelling my order and going with Amazon. It is a better price, esp. with free shipping.
Still, a pricey book, like most academic publications.

[AromaX]

Thanks for review. I was still doubting about this book as I couldn't see inside and thought it might be too similar to other books I had. But your examples about ionones (I have a special relationship with this guys) told me this book might be much more interesting read than I hought.

[Victoria]

I don't have anything like this in my library. It's very unique in its treatment of the material, and the examples are very interesting.

[Victoria]

Adding: but the book does presume that you know the fundamental principles of chemistry. Think of it as an advanced chemistry textbook, which is exactly what it is.

[Gogol]

Thank you so much for this review. I'm a geek at heart and this sounds like something I would um... enjoy.

[Victoria]

Hey, always great to meet more perfume geeks! I should have reviewed more chemistry text books earlier to see that I am not alone out there. :)

[AromaX]

Thanks! No problems with chemistry here - was one of my favorite subjects. Was just thinking that the book might be like another Bedukian's Perfumery and Flavoring Synthetics. Nice book about the origin and synthesis and the story of synthetics, but a I miss practical examples on applications (like references to perfume creations) there. But finally loved the examples from your review.

[Cherylquimby.blogspot.com]

Thanks for this wonderful review. I suspect the book is way over my head, but I'm going to give it my best!

[Gogol]

Yes, please! I love perfume for all the obvious reasons, but the geeky side is the lovely extra bit that keeps me completely hooked. An analysis of different ionones - yummm - wonder whether author discounts still exist at Wiley... (geeky voice trails off)

[Bernadette Lim]

Ah, the geeky-heart wants but the wallet bleeds.

[Victoria]

Yes, it is different from Perfumery and Flavoring Synthetics in that S&C is driven heavily by examples. That's the best part of the book for me.

[Victoria]

By the way, Gogol is one of my favorite authors, so seeing your screen name was a pleasure.

[Victoria]

You're welcome, Cheryl! Hope that it will be worth it.

[Victoria]

I felt it too! :)

[Jonathon Midgley]

OMG!!! This book sounds like the Dead Sea Scrolls of Perfumery!
I absolutely LONG to read it! Those aroamchemical details are what distinguish a volume such as this from the pop-culture diatribes on "scent"!!! Any person seriously into Perfumery would welcome the aromachemical details. And the price tag of $79 is a steal! I have paid many times more than this for all of my other Perfumery textbooks.
This sounds a winner for sure!